The Press and Journal (Inverness, Highlands, and Islands)
Roamin’ south
Jane Cumming explores the border of Scotland and England in search of a grand hall and a grand wall
We explore the border of Scotland and England in search of a grand hall and a grand wall
About 50 years ago my brother’s class visited Hadrian’s Wall.
There was something about that trip that sparked my imagination. I don’t know if it was his stories of larking about on the bus, or the history of the Romans in Britain that attracted me, but I was so looking forward to when it would be my turn. But my turn never came. When I was the same age there was no trip to see the great wall. I can’t remember if we went somewhere else or if school trips had fallen victim to budget cuts, but many years on I still remember the injustice of it.
So, planning a trip south, the idea emerged we should stop for a night in Cumbria and make a long overdue visit. And you know, I’m glad I never got to go when I was a child because I don’t think I could have enjoyed it more than we did last month.
Part of the enjoyment was finding a wonderful place for an overnight stay. Farlam Hall, about 10 miles east of Carlisle, is the perfect stopping off point for those wanting to break a long journey south.
It’s also close to some of the best-preserved parts of Hadrian’s Wall. Sitting in well-tended parkland among beautiful rolling countryside, it is a gorgeous location. As you arrive you can feel the stress lifting from your shoulders.
The Quinion family who have owned the Hall since 1975 certainly know how to provide the perfect relaxing stay. From
sumptuous rooms and delicious afternoon teas to splendid dinners and hearty breakfasts, they do everything with a quiet elegance.
There is a slightly old-fashioned feel to Farlam Hall. You wouldn’t be too surprised if you bumped into a character from an Agatha Christie novel in the lounge. But that is part of the charm of this wonderful place.
And of course, our visit gave us the opportunity to visit Hadrian’s wall.
It was well worth the half century wait. We were lucky to have the services of an exceptionally knowledgeable guide who explained its full history. Seeing it snake across the countryside you realise it wasn’t simply a wall but an array of towers and forts with ditches and roadways; all built in four years.
When you think how long modern roadworks go on, hats off to those Romans. They certainly got things done.
When visiting don’t miss Vindolanda the site of a Roman fort where some of the most fascinating artefacts have been found. There is still so much to be discovered, and with ongoing archaeological digs taking place, you may be lucky to be there when they find something important.
I could have spent all day exploring the wall but we needed to get to Farlam Hall to settle in before dinner. We enjoyed a delicious selection of canapes in the drawing room. One, a tiny BLT roll, was utterly delightful.
They keep an extensive wine list which, in my view, was modestly priced compared to many places we have visited. And the menu was small enough for us to be certain everything was going to be freshly cooked to order, yet extensive enough to satisfy the pickiest diner.
The dining room was sumptuous. Beautiful silver cutlery and cruet sets, polished glassware and crisp white napkins and tablecloths. Exactly as you would expect from a country house hotel. And the food similarly lived up to the splendid setting.
I had a lovely dish of boned quail with aubergine puree and vine tomatoes while my partner went for a delicious bowl of watercress and pear soup. Both hit the spot perfectly and a bottle of Chateaux Lamothe De Haux at £28 was a perfect accompaniment.
We both wanted the main course of pork tenderloin served with crispy streaky bacon, mashed potato and apple and brandy sauce. It was real comfort food and I admit I selfishly put my foot down and insisted on having it.
However, my partner’s plate of fillet of North Sea brill in a fantastic cream and wine sauce proved to be every bit as good.
Our desserts were simply sublime. The panna cotta was silky smooth, creamy and just set. The way it should be. And my homemade ice cream was rich and full flavoured. Coffees and petit fours were the icing on the cake.
After a sound sleep in a superbly comfortable bed, we enjoyed a beautifully cooked hearty breakfast to set us up for the trip north.
Farlam Hall is a perfect English Country House Hotel. Maybe not for those who are looking for a trendy, metropolitan getaway. But for a relaxing escape from the non-stop whirl of modern life, you couldn’t beat it. And I no longer feel slighted for missing that school trip to Hadrian’s wall.
HOLIDAY FACTS
• Prices: A one-night stay at Farlam Hall costs from £310 for dinner, room and full English breakfast.
• Hadrian’s Wall Tour arranged through www.greatguidedtours. co.uk, Prices from £30.