FISHDISHIS QUITEACATCH

Bieldside Inn has a lot on its plate: it sits in a prime position on the west side of Aberdeen along a main tourist route to Royal Deeside and luxuriates in a desirable location once described as one of the wealthiest in Scotland – and teeming with millionaires. So, its regulars must be a well-heeled and discerning lot who like the finer things in life.

Queen Victoria regularly rested up around here when she reached Bieldside to break her journeys between Aberdeen and Balmoral. With a reputed prodigious appetite for six-course meals, she no doubt enjoyed a snack or two before heading off again. She would have approved of the menu here, I am sure: a fusion of traditional Scottish pub food with some exotic surprises.

Thai fish cakes rub shoulders with haggis and black pudding bon bons, and chicken pie with feather-blade beef Ragu.

We could see it was popular from the start as we rolled up on a Saturday night, but not everything went to plan.

For starters, there was a mix-up over the seating arrangements. When we booked a few days earlier, a nice chap on the phone offered a rear window overlooking the balcony. On arriving, we were told that table was for larger parties and not for a couple like us. Sorry, they meant any couple, not a couple “like us”. At least, I think that is what they meant.

A game of musical chairs began: their first alternative was not great for us as we were placed near a lively group and didn’t fancy being drowned out for a couple of hours. We then trudged over to the other side, with comfy seat backing on the wall. This also happened to be nearer the window, but from my narrow vantage point I could only see two overflowing ashtrays and some crumpled cigarette packets on a table on the outside balcony, part of which was being used by smokers.

Finally, at the third time of asking, we could settle down at last and take stock.

Bieldside Inn looks like a typical country pub, but once through the traditional facade, it transforms into a stylish, modern feel, with dimmed lights and a lit-up bar-front. There are dining tables dotted about the bar area, but there is also a larger dining space within the open-plan design, set aside from the bar.

However, the general hubbub and music drifts from the bar into the dining area, giving it a warm, welcoming ambience.

We loved the bustling, friendly atmosphere and I discovered a star attraction on the menu – a catch of the day, in fact.

The menu draws from various influences, hence my chilli-infused soup and my wife’s

antipasto platter of cold meats and salad. The starters also offered salt and pepper calamari and a sharing plate for two made up of assorted starters.

It was all going so well, but controversy was about to strike.

Getting your steak cooked just right is a stressful business, as we all know. Will it be just how you wanted it or how the chef thought you wanted it? My wife asked for her fillet steak to be medium well-done. On the plate, it looked big, juicy and tender. The very epitome of a perfect mouth-watering fillet steak. I am off red meat at the moment, but even I was tempted.

Two slices in and it became obvious that this specimen bore a remarkably close resemblance to medium-rare rather than medium well-done. What should we have done next? Send it back for further attention, you might say. You are probably right – at £36 it was on a par with top-end steaks elsewhere in Aberdeen and made up almost 40% of the final bill. In typically British fashion, we didn’t wish to cause a scene. Anyway, a waitress discovered there was a problem as she cleared up and spotted the partially consumed steak. Within minutes, my wife was being offered two £5 glasses of Prosecco on the house as compensation. It was a gesture and at least they meant well.

Now, I have something much more positive to report – a gem of a dish, a discovery for me: my sea bass fillet was a delight, and quirky with great presentation.

The sea bass was laid out delicately across a large Cullen Skink potato cake, and accompanied by braised leeks, spinach and a saffron and baby caper cream sauce. It was a stunner, a beautiful dish. I enjoyed every delicious mouthful and it was a lovely fusion of two traditional dishes. We rounded off with sticky toffee pudding and apple and rhubarb pudding, which was full of sweet and tart flavours.

Despite a mixed report on our solitary visit, which is all I can judge it on after all, I have to say that the Bieldside Inn’s popularity was obvious. It was busy, bubbling with a pleasant and convivial atmosphere all night – and that spoke volumes.

Bieldside Inn manager Mark Wheeler, left, and head chef Simon Robertson