What tools do I need as a beginner? An overviewof the essentials
INTHElong run, payinga little extra for higher quality tools can saveyou moneyand problems alongthe way.
Low-quality,cheaptools may needto be replacedquickly. Theycan causedamageto the layoutor kits and be less accuratein use;with a model layout every millimetre can be vital.
A workman is only asgood as histools,asthe sayinggoes.
Thefollowing are not all the tools you may need,but will give you a good overviewto get started:
■ Modelling light - working for too long in low light can affectwork quality,and most importantly havea detrimental effect on your eyesight,long term.
■ Screwdrivers- a small magneticsetfor the models themselvesand a bigger setfor layout construction.
■ Knifesand cutting boardacutting boardwill protect surfacesand a self-healingmat will ensuretrue cuts.Youwill need severaldifferent types of knife,rangingfrom a Stanley knifefor normalcuts,to a scalpelwith a selectionof interchangeablebladesfor fine work. A chiselmayalsoprove a usefulinvestment.
■ Smallfiles and sandpaperof variouscoarseness.
■ Steelruler and tape measure.
■ Setsquare.
■ Drill and drill bits - the needto drill holesbetween 0.3mmand 2mm is surprisingly common,and you will need bigger sizesfor building a support frame.A few flat wood drill bits maybe beneficial.
■ Digital callipers- helps take accuratewidth or depth measurementsfor matchingrod or drill sizes.
■ Loupes- to help magnify smallcomponents.Jewellers Loupesarecheapand have variedstrengths.
■ Solderingequipment - 10-15 watt strength so you don't overheatjoints, unlessyou have brassjoints, then about 40 watts is right.
■ Clampsand holding tools needle-nosedpliers,square-jaw pliers,sidecuttersand a pair of tweezers.Clampswill hold things together while glue sets.
■ Paintbrushes- a good range of artist brushes.
■ Razorsawand cutting blockto cut true 45°or 90°angles.
■ Multimeter - measures current loadsof a motor,checks for continuity of a circuit ,and helpsestablishcurrent leadsof a resistor.
A model railwaylayouttakes a lot of work and patience,but good quality tools and the correcttool for the job can make things run smoother.
Baseboardsurfaces
AFTERyou haveplanned your layout, possiblythe most vital part of a layout feature is a baseboarda bad one can lead to uneventrack, poor running, derailments,de-coupling, and also increasethe risk of dust and fluff finding its way into a locomotive'smotors.
AlI that is neededis a standardboardthat holds the layout of the track, connecting to supporting framework.
Thereare a lot of options availablefor the track base.
The main onesthat are availablewithout visiting a specialistare:
■ - ideal for low-cost layouts,although not usedby manyserious enthusiastsbecauseit needs to be a minimum of 12mm thick and is heavy,making it difficult to transport around.
■ - available from most model shops, and cut into manageable sizesof 2ft x 4ft with a thicknessof 9mm, it is light and easyto use.Trackpins can be pushedin easily,but Sundealacan be difficult to cut or to sandsmooth. Locationof a layout can have a big impact on usingthis type of baseasmoisturein the air is easilyabsorbedby it and it canstart to sagif not substantiallysupported.
■
- MDF originated from the need of a'timber' construction materialthat didn't have grain.
It givesa high-standard finish, and the laminated versionisoften usedfor furniture products.
If you chooseto useMDF, a minimum thicknessof 12mm is recommended. Youmust be carefulwhen cutting or sandingbecause
■ - needsto be between 6-12mmthick, strong, durable and less affected by environmental changes.It will need supports underneath.
Many modellerschoose marine ply as it is more durable in damper conditions.Thereare also a number of specialist baseboardmanufacturers that providelaser-cutkits of varying sizes.Theyare modular and supplied flat packed,but alsohave support bracingaspart of the construction.The plus is they are simple to assemble.
Onedownsideof plywood canbethe needto pre-drill holesfor track pins.
Plywoodor MDFis the most recommendedmaterial from model shops,but it all comesdown to costs, personalpreferencesand what worksfor you.
Baseboardsupports
A baseboardsupport can be solid-topped or open-top. A solid-topped support is typically constructed from 2in x 1in planned square-edged(PSEt)imber.
The narroweredgefaces up to the baseboardand is arrangedasa grid pattern thicker timber can be used, but that will add cost and weight to the layout.
An open-top support has a similar frame construction, but not set out asa grid it hassupport beamsrunning acrossthe frame allowing for a more natural-looking appearance.
It is much easierto add a river or a road for passing underneaththe trackbed.