Shore Terrace, Dundee
Sarah Proctor samples global flavours in local ingredients
FOOD: Horseradish panna cotta, aubergine caviar, fermented bamboo – this menu looked a tad daunting! But manager Nikos, deputy Paul and all the staff put us at ease with their friendly enthusiasm. Most ingredients are sourced within a 50-mile radius and the chefs basically have fun with them. The Arbroath smokie and crab bonbons were beautifully set off by the tang of horseradish, while my husband’s sumac spiced lamb with puy lentils and aforementioned aubergine was pronounced outstanding. The tasty broccoli soup was heartily approved by my dad, who then chose Pork and lamb chevapis with melted feta from the Graze menu of smaller, tapas-style dishes, plus a side order of delicious rustic chips. I went all Mastercheffy and tried Beetroot Textures – a softly flavoured vegan delight of firm beets, coconut mousse, crunchy hazelnuts and morsels of orange. We oohed over the Drambuie crème brulée while Dad polished off frozen Tayside currants with hot chocolate sauce. The nitro coffee machine was being temperamental but I was offered a refreshing frappé instead; I’ll get my nitro fix next time, and maybe even try that fermented bamboo! 9/10
SERVICE: Friendly and attentive. Paul in particular was very helpful in explaining the menu. 10/10
AMBIENCE: I couldn’t believe I was so relaxed without alcohol! For a big space – formerly a shopping arcade under the Caird Hall – it’s surprisingly cosy, with warm, soft lighting and minimum echo. 9/10
VALUE FOR MONEY: Prices are a wee bit above average but then the quality of food is well above. 9/10
FACILITIES: Very handy for the V&A. The venue becomes a bar later in the evening, so you can simply stay on. Wide, flat entrance, lots of space; loos accessible, clean and pleasant. 9/10