Slàinte Mhath
As Scotch whisky evolves, Johnnie Walker’s master blender, Dr Jim Beveridge, remains focused on exceptional flavour
Whisky writer Euan Duguid meets an expert who celebrates 40 years in the dram business
IONCE heard someone compare the Scotch whisky industry to a great river, with single malts and blends as individual tributaries. When considered as a whole, they form an entity as great as the Nile.
For Dr Jim Beveridge, Johnnie Walker’s Master Blender, his journey with the water of life has reached a spectacular confluence.
Jim, an analytical chemist to trade, was recently awarded an OBE for his outstanding service to the Scotch whisky industry. The ceremony, at Windsor Castle, was in recognition of his remarkable career spanning almost four decades with Diageo, Johnnie Walker’s parent company. The accolade comes as the world’s most popular Scotch celebrates its 200th anniversary.
John Walker opened his grocer’s store in Kilmarnock in 1820 and went on to sell a range of spirits from there, included specially-blended whiskies.
As he reflects at these two milestones, I offer Jim a penny for his thoughts. “I would love to have a time machine to go back to the grocery store and see just what it was like and what the whiskies were like that John had in his shop,” he said.
“I have no idea what John would make of the world today. But if you look at the entrepreneurship, the ingenuity, the fearless ambition that runs through the Johnnie Walker story, I think he would expect us to keep innovating and pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved.”
During the good doctor’s four decades in the industry, the way whisky is consumed and where it is consumed has evolved radically.
The continued growth in markets like China, for example, have seen the blend regularly enjoyed with green tea, the subtle tannins combining beautifully with the charred wood and toffee notes of the whisky.
Jim and his team have remained ever-flexible to an evolving and varied global palate.
“There’s probably still a perception for some people that there’s a ‘right way’ to drink whisky. While the familiar and traditional serves can be great, they’re not hard and fast rules,” he says.
“For us, the first thing in our minds when we look at a new whisky is the pursuit of flavour. How can we create extraordinary new flavours? That’s what drives us.
“So, at any time, we’ll be working on hundreds of experiments and exploring a wide range of innovative flavours and influences, distillation conditions, grain used, cask finishes and different types of oak wood – all in the pursuit of exceptional flavour.”
A case in point is Johnnie Walker’s increasing focus on Highballs, with a new global campaign recently launched.
Highball cocktails – comprising whisky, water (or soda) and ice – first appeared in Japan after the Second World War and became the most popular way of enjoying whisky in that country during the late 1950s. The resurgence has captured Jim’s imagination.
“Highballs are brilliant drinks that give people lots of ways to try whisky for the first time,” he tells me.
“We’re highlighting five big, bold flavours – peach, lemon, elderflower, ginger and green tea – all mixed with Johnnie Walker over ice in a tall glass. There are some surprising choices but they create amazing tasting drinks.”
Dr Beveridge is an ardent practitioner of the mechanics of his trade. He’s also a passionate advocate of the human experience behind the production, dedicating his royal accolade to all whom he’s worked with.
“For many, the process of blending might feel like conducting an orchestra – creating something that is greater than the sum of its parts. For us at Johnnie Walker, it’s about a team coming together in pursuit of exceptional flavour.
“No master blender can do what we need to do without incredible people around them. I’m very proud of our small passionate and skilled team of 12, who all bring a tremendous amount of knowledge to the table.
“Our process is collaborative and we nose hundreds of samples each week, sharing ideas and building knowledge together.
“But that sentiment goes beyond the whisky makers. We work with our distillers, coopers, design and packaging teams, innovation and archivists. Every facet of the process, from grain to glass, is a team effort.”
I imagine the source of this powerful tributary of the Scotch industry, John Walker, would raise a glass that.
“Highballs are brilliant drinks that offer lots of ways to try whisky for the first time”