Rediscover Lost Scots
Explore the ruins of Boreraig and glimpse the once thriving village
PICTURE Scotland’s hills and glens without the ubiquitous sheep. Then picture them alive with crofts and farms, their inhabitants tending the land and forming vibrant and spirited communities.
One such community was Boreraig, a small village on the north shore of Loch Eishort. It’s still there, but now as a series of empty shells, and a stark reminder of the blight that was to erase hundreds of communities in the 19th century – the Highland Clearances.
The Scottish census of 1851 listed approximately 120 men, women and children living in Boreraig. A few years later there were none, driven from the land by their Macdonald laird to make room for – yes, you’ve guessed it – sheep. Some found crofts on another part of the island, but almost half sailed to the New World.
All that is left of this village are the bare walls of crofts, and anyone who explores the ruins can’t help but picture what life might have been like in this peaceful and verdant part of Skye.
There is evidence of the Clearances all over the Highlands, but few as atmospheric as Boreraig.
A prominent Edinburgh geologist, Archibald Geekie, witnessed the eviction at first hand and noted “a plaintive wail, like a funeral coronach. The sound re-echoed through the valley in one prolonged note of desolation”.
The path to Boreraig follows an old railway line that ran between Broadford and a series of marble quarries. It closed in 1912 but is still well-maintained.
Once you’ve taken in the village and the spectacular
“The scenery and wildlife can’t help but spirits raise your spirits"
views, you can head back the way you came for a 10km (six-mile) walk, or follow the path along the coastline to
Suisnish, a village which suffered the same fate as Boreraig.
The full circular walk round the headland between Loch Eishort and Loch Slapin is 16.5km (10 miles). Look out for the resident barn owls and an inquisitive eagle that reportedly flies over to inspect walkers.
Standing in the ruins, it doesn’t take much imagination to hear that sound more than 250 years later. The tale of the crofters is a sombre one, but the scenery and wildlife you’ll encounter on this incredible walk can’t help but raise your spirits.
For more on Suisnish see page 48 www.walkhighlands.co.uk/skye/boreraigsuisnish