Cooling Pyrenees make whites of Limoux a treat

With its spectacular snow-capped Pyrenees backdrop, fresher temperatures and green lushness from its wet climate, Limoux is one of my favourite appellations in the Languedoc.

Midway between Perpignan and Toulouse, you might think that Limoux’s location south of Carcassonne would be too hot to make sleek whites and stylish sparkling wines. But in these wild hills, where Atlantic and Mediterranean climates converge, up at 750 metres in the foothills of the Pyrenees, the mountain air and limey soils give wines a thrillingly crisp minerality, in comparison to lower-lying Languedoc neighbours.

The white mauzac grape dominates here (named ‘blanquette’ due to the white coating on its leaves), but it is slowly being outpaced by French classic varietals chenin blanc and chardonnay used for still and sparkling wines.

Blanquette de Limoux is the traditional fizz here, based on mauzac using the traditional/champagne method. There is also a single ferment method resulting in ancestrale mauzac, a slightly sweeter fizz sold in the region. Most popular with UK wine retailers is Cremant de Limoux, which tastes a little more like champagne, made predominantly from chardonnay and chenin blanc. Pricewise expect to pay around £12 (the cheapest at Lidl is £6.99; now sold out).

Personally I prefer Limoux’s still wines. Interestingly, this is France’s only white wine region with compulsory whole bunch pressing and barrel fermentation. Whilst the appellation states they must contain at least 15 per cent mauzac, white grapes chenin blanc and old vine chardonnay can dominate the cuvée.

Still reds are a conundrum – the climate and limey soils suit pinot noir, but Bordeaux grapes such as merlot, malbec and the cabernets are strangely favoured. Limoux’s still pinot noir must be sold as vin de pays, but it is the first Languedoc appellation allowing 50 per cent merlot in its wine.

Today this region has an interesting mix of new and old producers. Two newcomers are enterprising international couples. Dutch-born Jan and Caryl Panman worked in Chile, but chose to move to France, buying the stunning 20 hectare Chateau Rivesblanques in 2001 while British couple James and Catherine Kinglake bought Domaine Begude from Bertie Eden, the Languedoc organic pioneer in 2003.

Most prestigious of the old guard of Limoux is historic winery, Antech (pronounced An-tesh) now run by sixth generation, Michele and Francoise Antech. This winery favours long ageing, so their fizz tends to have a deeper, honeyed maturity.

Sparkling Cremant de Limoux 2014 Ch Roche Lacour

Laithwaites’ best-selling fizz, this is a chardonnay/pinot noir based cuvée with oak fermentation, biscuity notes, richness and texture. Not as good as champagne, but better than many other cremants I have tasted at this price.

£11.99, Laithwaites

Cremant de Limoux, Cuvée Royale Brut NV

Not as rich or succulent as Roche Lacour, but acceptable with floral notes, citric undertones and fine mousse.

£11.99, Waitrose

Cremant de Limoux Brut NV Antech

Another popular bottle. The Antechs blend 70 per cent chardonnay with 15 per cent each of chenin blanc and mauzac, giving it citric and appley flavours with a honeyed spice undertone; while long lees ageing has given this creamy textural depth. £12.25, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com

Blanquette de Limoux 2015 Ch Rives-blanques

This 100 per cent mauzac cuvée has a juicy zestiness with grassy, earthy notes and pear and white fruit undertones. It has no dosage, but might work well alongside a spicy curry. £16, www.tanners-wines.co.uk; www.thebottlebank.co.uk

White Dedicace Chenin Blanc 2014 Ch Rives-blanques

A superb example of chenin blanc. Zesty, juicy, creamy textured with refreshing crispness. Limoux has the only chenin blanc appellation in the south of France. The Panmans made the first 100 per cent chenin blanc example in the area – proving that this grape is very much at home here. Great value too.

£11.50, The Wine Society

Cuvée de l’odysee Chardonnay 2015 Ch Rives-blanques

When I first met Jan and Caryl Panman two years ago at the Languedoc Outsiders tasting, this was the wine that impressed me most. It hails from their Le Pech vineyard at 380 metres; fermented and matured in French oak, this sleek, nutty, minerally chardonnay is a serious match for Burgundy. £14.50, www.tannerswines.co.uk; www.

greatwesternwines.co.uk

Red Pinot Noir 2015 Domaine Begude

The Kinglakes produce Languedoc’s best value pinot noir, sold at an astonishingly low price for the quality. Crunchy red fruits with a delicacy and elegance. ■ £10.99, Waitrose; www. stonevine.co.uk