Seabirds in a (small) storm
Children can be much better seafarers than adults, as Kirsty Cathrine discovered on a trip to the Bass Rock on the Seabird Centre’s catamaran
‘Wooooooo, splash. Wooooooo, splash. We need more biscuits,” shouted my three-year-old excitedly. Given the strong winds and rolling waves, I was rapidly devouring ginger biscuits in an attempt to stave off seasickness. He was just eating them for fun though, utterly amazed that boat trips appeared to mean endless treats. Meanwhile our baby giggled with delight as he rocked happily in a sling hanging from his dad. In fact our two children were entirely at ease with the motion, unlike many of the adults present. With rain and 19 mile an hour winds forecast, a “fresh breeze” according to the Beaufort Scale, we weren’t really in a proper storm despite our boys’ insistence. But it was certainly the sort of weather where we needed to cling on at points.
When we had checked the forecast that morning we were sure that our boat trip to the Bass Rock would be cancelled. Having been invited along to see how family friendly the catamaran trips out to the Rock are, I was very keen to go but also wary of the weather. Nevertheless, our family of four (myself, husband, three-yearold and baby) dressed head to toe in waterproofs and waddled to the dockside in North Berwick. Luckily (I think) the earlier boats had been cancelled but not our one. There were even several people waiting in the hope that there would be spare spaces. Clearly the seabirds at the Bass Rock are a big draw.
In fact, the boat was packed. Well, more accurately the undercover part of the catamaran was full, but the rest was somewhat empty. Despite the crew eagerly wiping down seats, it was clear that lots of the passengers were slightly less prepared for the rain than we were. It somehow seemed rather funny that a baby and pre-schooler were happily sitting in the rain when lots of adults were huddling under a canopy moaning about the weather.
After a rather bumpy crossing, including a look at Craigleith Island, we started seeing increasing numbers of seabirds. Chubby little puffins paddled all around us, and gannets and gulls flew overhead. “Wow, look Mumma – the birds are flying. Hello gannet, go get more fish. Byyyyyyyeeeee,” came the excited yells. The gannets seemed entirely oblivious to the presence of a small boy jumping up and down waving at them, but that didn’t matter to him at all.
From a distance the Bass Rock appeared to be covered in white bird poo, but as we approached it became clear that the “poo” was in fact thousands of gannets. On seemingly every possible space on the island, including tiny jutting out cliffs and steep slopes, were the elegant yellowheaded birds and their fluffy chicks. The entire rock seemed to be moving – birds flying in and out, bickering, feeding young, and preening. They surrounded us on the water too, and in the skies; dropping down suddenly to catch fish, and calling to each other. When a seal also appeared near the rocks and followed the boat briefly there was even more excitement.
Well over half of the UK’S breeding gannets nest on this one island, and numbers have been increasing at such a rate that there is almost no space left. In fact the Bass Rock is now home to the world’s largest breeding colony of northern gannets. Due to overcrowding, gannets are having to look further afield for nesting sites, and this year was the first ever time that a pair has successfully nested at St Abb’s Head National Nature Reserve a few miles away. At a time when many seabirds are declining, the gannets seem to be thriving.
All too soon we had to leave the relative shelter afforded by the Rock, and return to harbour. After some rather large rolling waves hit us on the way back several of the adult passengers were clutching sickbags. Meanwhile my two boys were both still absolutely contented watching the wildlife and water.
The amazing views were most certainly worth the mild discomfort. Mind you, I think I might return another day when it’s slightly calmer weather, if only to take some photos without seaspray. n
Chubby little puffins paddled all around us, and gannets and gulls flew overhead
A one hour trip out to the Bass Rock on the Seabird Centre’s catamaran costs £17 for adults and £9 for 4-16 year olds (under 3’s are free). Concession and family tickets are available, and you can save money if you buy tickets to the Seabird Discovery Centre and boat at the same time. For families with older children there are other more adventurous boat trips available too. For more information see the boat trips section of https://www.seabird.org. It’s also worth noting that the Seabird Centre sell ginger biscuits (the posh Borders Biscuits one with chocolate no less).