A chorus of approval
From hilltop towns to pretty sea ports, Istria is an alluring corner of Croatia, finds Neil Geraghty
One of the great pleasures of travelling around Croatia is stumbling across a klapa choir. This ancient form of a cappella singing originated in Dalmatia and the beautiful harmonies never fail to lift your spirits. I was sitting in a rustic garden restaurant in the medieval hill town of Bale in Istria when a clap of thunder heralded a ferocious summer storm. Within minutes a deluge of rain began blowing in and as the waiters scurried around securing plastic windbreaks a cat jumped up onto a wooden ceiling beam to shelter from the storm. Perhaps fearing flash flooding, conversation amongst the anxious looking diners ground to a halt, and so to liven things up, a group of men who were having dinner broke into song. By chance they happened to be a visiting klapa choir and the lilting melodies quickly put us at ease. Long after the storm passed our feline friend remained sitting on the beams staring down like the Cheshire Cat, transfixed by the beautiful music.
Up until the late 18th century, Istria was ruled by the Venetian Republic and to this day the region exudes a distinct Italian dolce vita lifestyle. Just to the south of the beautiful coastal town of Rovinj I checked into the Monte Mulini, a sleek contemporary hotel with cavernous rooms, all with terraces overlooking infinity pools and a pine fringed bay. The outdoor restaurant terrace is a particularly lovely spot and after an al fresco breakfast of fresh cherry juice and fritule, light and fluffy bite sized doughnuts, I set out to explore the surroundings. The Monte Mulini has complimentary bikes for guests’ use and south of the hotel, the Vistrum Cycle Trail passes along one of the region’s most scenic stretches of coastline. Beyond a promontory an undulating path leads through fragrant pine woods, passing rocky coves sheltered by tiny islets. The water in these coves is an irresistible translucent green and parking my bike against a pine tree, I walked down to the rocks, changed into my trunks and dived into the opalescent water, the perfect refreshing break from a hot summer’s bike ride.
From Rovinj I drove north to Vrsar, an ancient fishing port built around a pretty harbour where gleaming yachts lie anchored next to vintage fishing vessels. Every third weekend over the summer, a fishermen’s festival is held around the harbour and for seafood fans it is a real treat. Croatia is not known for its haute cuisine but one dish you can always rely on is simply prepared fresh fish. The sun was setting when I wandered down to the harbour and mouth watering aromas emanated from dozens of portable stoves piled
high with sizzling delicacies. I chose a sword fish steak, buttery soft and bursting with freshness, the perfect dinner for a magical Adriatic sunset.
No visit to the Croatian coast is complete without a trip to the islands. The nearest to Istria are the twin islands of Cres and Losinj which are a 15 minute ferry hop away from the village of Brestova. Cres is a rugged island where ancient stone villages cling to rocky mountain slopes. If you’re lucky you’ll spot griffin vultures, once common across Europe, circling for carrion above the mountain tops. Neighbouring Losinj which is separated from Cres by an 11 metre wide channel has a completely different character and was once a winter retreat for the Austro Hungarian royal family who came here to enjoy the healing properties of the mild climate. On the thickly wooded Cikat Bay the Habsburg nobility built elegant villas and to this day the bay exudes an air of peaceful exclusivity. Many of the villas still exist but the most striking property is the Bellevue Hotel that started life in 1967 as a functional communist resort and was recently transformed into a gleaming luxury mid century modernist style hotel that would look perfectly at home in Palm Springs.
As part of the redevelopment the entire promenade of Cikat Bay was relandscaped and delightful paths lit from below at night meander past jasmine filled gardens chirping with cicadas. After the long drive I headed down to the poolside terrace for a lingering buffet dinner of local specialities including fuzi, hand rolled spindles of pasta served with fresh langoustine tails and Cres lamb infused with herbs freshly picked from the Bellevue’s rooftop kitchen garden. Afterwards I wandered down to the hotel’s beach bar where a klapa choir had attracted a small crowd of passers by. For over an hour haunting melodies echoed around the bay and barely a single person noticed the flashes of lightning from a distant summer storm brewing in the Adriatic. ■
If you’re lucky you’ll spot griffin vultures, once common across Europe
Prestige Holidays (www.prestigeholidays.co.uk/croatia, tel: 01425 480 400) has a seven night holiday to Croatia, departing Edinburgh on 8 October to Pula with Jet2 from £879 per person including car hire. The deal includes airport
pick up from Pula, with four nights at Monte Mulini in Rovinj in a Premium room including breakfast and three nights at Bellevue Hotel in Mali Losinj, staying in a Superior Atrium room including breakfast. The price includes a saving of £97 at Bellevue Hotel per couple.