Take refuge in Switzerland
Tolerant and open minded, Geneva is a most welcoming city, finds
Geneva can be a sweltering city and when temperatures soar into the 30s there’s only one place to head: the Jet d’eau, a colossal 140 metre high fountain in the middle of Lake Geneva that sends clouds of refreshing spray wafting over the lake’s shore. A jetty leads out to the fountain where tourists can enjoy spectacular close up views but as locals know only too well, it’s wise to keep your distance. On a sultry July evening I wander down to the lake to cool off and as I walk along the promenade I pass groups of locals sitting on the wharves drinking ice cold beers and enjoying the cool mist blowing over from the fountain. The Jet d’eau pumps out 500 litres of water per second and as the water falls down it forms swirling patterns that are strangely hypnotic to watch. I follow two young couples onto the jetty and as we approach the fountain, the roar of cascading water becomes deafening. The couples are well ahead of me when the wind suddenly changes direction and the plume of water veers round towards us. I turn and run as fast as I can but it’s too late for the couples behind me. I hear a shriek as 7,000 litres of water begin raining down on top of them, much to the mirth of the beer drinkers.
Geneva has an easy going international ambience and its long tradition of harbouring exiles fleeing persecution made it a natural choice for the European Headquarters of the United Nations as well as home for numerous NGOS. A stroll around the historic city centre reveals a who’s who of eminent refugees and by the city walls I stumble across a statue of the father of Scottish presbyterianism John Knox who lived in exile here in the 1550s and penned some of his most fiery missives against the Catholic church and the Scottish monarchy. Lenin was another famous exile and a carved relief of him with the words Geneve Cite de Refuge is carved onto the 16th century Molard Tower that once stood guard over Geneva’s port. Behind the tower lies one of Geneva’s prettiest squares which in summer transforms into a sea of outdoor terraced restaurants. I take a seat at Cafe du Centre, one of Geneva’s most popular seafood restaurants and over a dinner of grilled pike perch, caught fresh from the lake, I take in the atmosphere. A third of Geneva’s population are ex-pats who hail from all over the world and amid the animated chatter waiters glide around effortlessly switching between French, German,