Godello is Spain’s other fabulous minerally white

If you like aromatic, minerally rich whites with the pungency of viognier and the texture of chardonnay, you will love godello.

The Spanish godello grape (pronounced god-a-yo) is the second most prestigious Atlantic white, after albarino. Grown in Galicia in northwest Spain in Bierzo, Valdeorras, Ribeira Sacra and Monterrei, it was almost extinct in the 1970s. However, thanks to the Godello Revival project masterminded by Horacio Fernandez and Luis Hidalgos, there are now more than 1,200 hectares in Spain and 970 hectares in northern Portugal.

It is believed to have originated on the banks of the River Sil in Spain’s Ourense province of Galicia, although some say it actually came from Godella in Valencia. The first written record from Portugal is from the Douro region in 1531 by Rui Fernandes – where it is called gouveio – and today is often used in white port blends. A little is also found in Dao in northern Portugal.

Godello’s spiritual home is Spain’s small Valdeorras region where the best flinty spicy whites are made on granite and slate hillside vineyards. Warm inland temperatures help ripen the grapes, but the Atlantic influence keeps acidity levels high. The best known producer in Valdeorras is the Guitan family’s La Tapada. Other producers in Valdeorras are Rafael Palacios, Jorge Ordonez and Valdesil, who own the largest holdings of godello here. All three make excellent examples.

In neighbouring Bierzo, the coal mining district in inland Galicia surrounded by mountains, godello is planted on steep slatey slopes. Best known for its mencia red wines, Bierzo is reviving godello but it is often grown and blended alongside dona blanca and the rather dull palomino grapes which were planted after phylloxera.

A little further southwest in the tiny Monterrei region, right on the Portuguese border on the banks of the River Tamega, the climate is a little drier and warmer. Godello is known as verdello here (not the same as verdelho of Madeira) and Monterrei examples tend to be easier to drink, softer, less minerally – but still with the grape’s distinctive floral notes and apple and apricot aromas.

UK supermarkets are embracing godello in the same way they have with albarino, so you can find good value examples under £10 (the best value was at Aldi which sold the very good Wine Foundry Godello, sadly currently out of stock) – but to taste real godello with its rich minerality you need to pay £12-plus.

Monterrei: Musica en el Camino Godello 2015

With apples and pears, and floral notes, this is a lighter example of godello; ideal as an aperitif.

£11, Marks & Spencer

Monterrei: Mara Martin Godello 2015 Martin Codax

This features citric and tropical fruits, a soft rounded palate, and leesy flavours with good length. £11-£11.95, Valvona & Crolla, www.valvonacrolla.co.uk; Maxwell’s Glasgow; The Fine Wine Co, Musselburgh; Aitken Wines, Dundee; Morrisons

Bierzo: Godello 2015 Bodegas Godelia

Here you’ll find peach and grapefruit notes with a full rich leesy palate from five months on lees with batonnage (lees stirring); made from 80 per cent godello with 20 per cent dona blanca. £11.98, Moreno Wines; www.amazon.co.uk

Bierzo: Taste the Difference Godello 2015

Try this for citric fruit aromas with nutty, herby undertones, lovely structure and crisp acidity – good value.

£9, Sainsbury’s

Bierzo: Legado de Farro Godello 2016 Bodegas Arganza

This has citrus and apple aromas, and is slightly herby with bay leaf undertones and a delicious creamy, leesy character. £11.99, Raeburn Wines, Edinburgh

Valdeorras: Gaba do Xil Godello 2016 Telmo Rodriguez

An easy-drinking, soft, unoaked godello made by Telmo Rodriguez; this bottle has an attractive gentle delicacy and mineral hints. £10.95, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com

Valdeorras: Valdesil Sobre Lias Godello 2015

A very rich intense godello with very creamy leesy palate, sleek minerality and fabulous depth. £16, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com

Valdeorras: Louro de Bolo 2016 Rafael Palacios

This is an interesting example; initially floral, it has orange zest notes with a classic minerally core and zesty acidity. From godello grown on granite slopes and aged in large 3,000 litres foudre casks with six per cent treixadura grape in the blend.

£16.75, www.winedirect.co.uk

Valdeorras: Avanthia Godello 2015 Jorge Ordonez

Godello is at its biggest and best with butterscotch, greengage, apple and lemon flavours, rich toasty palate from barrel ferment and oak ageing for seven months. ■ £18.75, www.vinissimus. co.uk; C&D Wines; Highbury Vintners; www.ultracomida. co.uk

Join Rose’s Chocolate & Wines for Christmas tasting in Edinburgh on 12 December, £42pp, www. rosemurraybrown.com