Play time in Stratford
At The Townhouse the stage is set for a dramatic weekend break, writes Moira Gordon
If all the world really is a stage and all us men and women merely players, be grateful if you are permitted the pleasure of performing any scene where Stratford-upon-avon provides the backdrop.
There is something magical about this quaint medieval market town, that drips with history and character. Blessed with olde worlde Tudor buildings and river walks, the home of the Royal Shakespeare Company allows you to metaphorically check in your woes like a coat at the cloakroom and, like any fine play, it is able to instantly transport visitors to another world.
The birthplace of William Shakespeare, fans of the playwright have cause to visit the idyllic town and every year hundreds of thousands make the pilgrimage, following umbrella or flag wielding tour guides as they snake their way through the narrow streets from one point of interest to another.
From the many theatres which stage his plays to some of his finest soliloquies on a tiny stone rostrum in the picturesque garden of his childhood home, the bard’s works are on permanent show and the chapters of his life are vividly illustrated in numerous buildings throughout the town.
There is a warm welcome the minute we pull up outside the beautiful, 400 year-old Grade II listed building of The Townhouse. The chapel-like windows inspire the graphics on the hotel signage and they also offer a quick glimpse into a delightful interior that is as warm as the general manager Neil Hanson and his staff.
With parking located at a nearby NCP car park we first unload our bags and with them any troubles as, for the next couple of days, our every need is taken care of.
After checking in, we are shown to our room. Winding our way through the inviting bar – which stocks a wide range of speciality gins and a long list of cocktails – the comfortable dining room and up a couple of flights of ornate stairs, the attention to detail is obvious in the decor of the 12-room hotel. Retaining the character of the building, the owners, Brakspear, have managed to give the hotel a contemporary feel. Steering clear of the twee, they have instead used a palette of green, taupes and grey heritage colours to convey the sense of history, while the plush furnishings offer the warmth and richness that allows guests to feel pampered but also completely at home.
Entering our top-floor bedroom it is clear that sense of luxury extends to every one of the bedrooms. Each is unique but they all have quality vintage furniture – not a flat-pack wardrobe or nightstand in sight – giant beds draped in crisp white sheets that easily envelop weary
travellers, the kind of thick-pile carpets you sink your grateful toes into, and a welcoming decanter of port. Even the bathrooms offer a degree of decadence, with shower cubicles big enough to host a party, gorgeous tiling and a roll top bath.
Leaving such an inviting room is not easy but with a town to be explored it would be wasteful, albeit understandable to simply hole ourselves up there. Instead we set off to take in the jaunty-angled houses, navigate the narrow streets which join the main thoroughfares, and check out the individual shops, before finding a beer garden along the banks of the Avon where we watch the barges and boats on the river.
Back at the hotel, the lure of sampling a pre-dinner cocktail was too strong and we allowed the bar staff to surprise us. After a few questions to ascertain which tipples would be best suited to us, we were served up a Planters Punch and a Bramble and both were delicious.
The vibe in the bar was relaxed and friendly and, as is the case, every evening from Monday to Saturday we were treated to some live piano music, courtesy of one of the music students from the King Edward’s School, situated opposite the hotel.
Dinner was an equally enchanting experience. The lighting was intimate and romantic but the mood was informal while the service was informed but never intrusive.
As for the food – that was close to perfection. The breakfast choices were superb, with the eggs royale besting the full fry up, although the waffles were a tempting alternative. There is a great value pre-theatre menu, with three courses for £16.50, and on Sundays several roast options are added to the list. But there could be no complaints about the food that we settled on over the course of the two-night stay. From the melt in the mouth twice-baked cheddar soufflé, to the seared scallops, grilled pork cutlet and ribeye steak, there was nothing to fault on the plates other than the fact they left little room for dessert. Thankfully, though, we were unable to resist the passion fruit and lemon posset, and the warm treacle tart and we knew that we could work some of it off the next day as we followed the tourists around town, in and out of the museums retracing the bard’s footsteps.
As Shakespeare himself said: All’s well that ends well. ■
We set off to take in the jaunty-angled houses, navigating the narrow streets
Double rooms at The Townhouse (01789 262222 or e-mail book@ stratfordtownhouse.co.uk) 16 Church Street, Stratford-upon-avon, Warwickshire CV37 6HB start at £140 per night.