Saintes, France

Friday, 7pm

Check in at Hotel des Messageries (Rue des Messageries, 17100 Saintes, hotel-des-messageries.com). Doubles cost from €85.

8pm

Creperie Victor Hugo (20 Rue Victor Hugo, www.creperie-victor-hugo.fr) is informal and next to the hotel.

Saturday, 9am

Cross the Charente to Saintes’ Roman-era landmark, the Arch of Germanicus.

10am

Listen to chamber music performed by the youth ensemble at the 11th century Abbaye aux Dames (www. abbayeauxdames.org).

Midday

Enjoy a two-course lunch at Les Saveurs de l’abbaye, €27.50. (1 Place Sallais, www.saveurs-abbaye.com)

3pm

Cruise the Charente on a gabare (board at Place Bassompierre, close to the tourist office), €8.

5pm

Visit cognac house Grosperrin (1 Rue de Corbiac, 17100 Saintes, www. lagabare.com, free tours every 45 minutes, Mon-sat).

8:30pm

An evening of tapas and swing at La Musardiere (29 Rue Alsacelorraine, www.facebook.com/ lamusardieresaintes).

Sunday, 10am

Walk to the Roman amphitheatre, another impressive relic that in its 1st-century heyday seated 15,000.

11:30am

Visit the Basilique Saint-eutrope, Saintes’ grandiose 11th century Romanesque cathedral.

12:30pm

Lunch at elegant Vingt-neuf, close to Saint-eutrope (19 Place Blair, www. restaurant29.fr). Around €40 each.

3pm

Visit the Musée de l’échevinage (29 Rue Alsace-lorraine, €7), which celebrates the region’s ceramics.

7pm

La Terrasse (13 Quai de la Republique, tel: 0546 98 22 31) offers a Catalaninfluenced menu, with a view of the Charente, around €25 each.

Monday, 9am

Check out for the station. ■