Tuk-tuk much fun
As Sri Lanka celebrates 70 years of independence, Laura Millar visits this compelling mix of temples, tea plantations and tuk-tuks
Explore Colombo then hit the beach in Sri Lanka
Kids playing cricket on a long stretch of grass by the Indian Ocean; palm trees waving in front of a British-looking Anglican church; a tall, thin communications tower with a lotusshaped top – all these, and more, are whizzing past me at the grand old rate of about… 20mph, as I take in the giddying sights of Sri Lanka’s capital, Colombo, from the back of a tuk-tuk. The country’s most prevalent form of transportation, these cute little conveyances are, basically, scooters with attitude: converted, threewheeled Vespas or Piaggos, with a van-like casing and a retractable roof.
I’m in an even more souped-up version, complete with stereo system in the back, and a man dressed in a pith helmet, colonial jacket, shorts, and dazzlingly white knee-high socks, behind the wheel. This is because I’m on a “tuk-tuk safari”, taking me and three friends on a
It’s time to revel in the fact that I’m on this utterly ravishing island
whistle-stop tour of Sri Lanka’s biggest city to the sounds of pumping dance music, as we weave through some frankly hair-raising traffic. Colombo, on the west of the island, is usually more of a stopping-off point en route to somewhere else, whether it’s to the beach-lined southern coast, or onwards to even more exotic climes, particularly the Maldives. But, as I was to discover, there is plenty here to keep you for at least a couple of days, which I was doing before heading to the coast myself.
For a country torn apart by civil war for over 25 years – one which only ended less than a decade ago, in May 2009 – it’s doing a good job of getting back on its feet. Tourism is on the rise, and construction is booming all over the city, such as the aforementioned Lotus Tower – which, when finished, will apparently be, at 1,120ft, the tallest structure in South Asia – apartment blocks, skyscrapers and luxury hotels.
These last include the one I’m staying in, the stylish Shangri-la.
It’s from here we set off on our tuktuk tour, where the exuberant guides make their first stop at one of the city’s most beautiful Buddhist temples. Gangaramaya is over 300 years old, and is one of the most important in Colombo, with an eclectic mix of Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian, and Chinese architecture. There are beautifully hand-painted wooden ceilings with intricate flower designs, multilimbed Hindu statues in two separate shrines, and an ancient Bodhi tree, its tangle of roots and branches writhing and twisting around each other. It feels inclusive and peaceful, our visit coinciding with a holy day, so we are surrounded by worshippers wearing white.
After zipping around colourful street markets, past the striking redand-white patterned Jami Ul-alfar mosque, and encountering crowds of school children who gawp in awe at our musical mode of transport, our final destination is the multipillared Independence Memorial Hall, built on the site of the ceremony which marked the liberation of Sri Lanka – then known as Ceylon – from British rule on 4 February, 1948, subsequently becoming a Republic in 1972. Sri Lanka changed hands many times over the centuries, passing from the Portuguese in the 17th century, followed by the Dutch and the British, all of which periods of colonialism left their mark both culturally and architecturally.
One of the most fascinating places
to see these influences is around what’s known as Colombo Fort, although there are no longer any physical remnants of the fort itself, which was originally built by the Portuguese to house their military, as well as to store precious spices, such as cinnamon. It’s now a heritage area spilling over with elegant buildings constructed by the Dutch and the British. At the end of nearby Chatham Street – many local street names are resolutely English-sounding – is an iconic lighthouse topped with a clocktower, which used to signal ships into the port.
A short walk away is a cluster of fascinating, wedding-cake-like buildings including the bright, white President’s House and the old GPO, and an imposing maroon and cream edifice still marked with its original name, Cargills, dating back to when it opened in 1906 as a bustling department store, selling everything from feather dusters to driving goggles. One of the most significant buildings, however, is the Old Dutch Hospital, which has been carefully converted into a lively retail and restaurant area, without sacrificing the original, 17th century brickwork. I spend my last night in Colombo happily chowing down at one of its most famous eateries, the Ministry of Crab, which specialises in crustaceans of every size, from small (well, 500g) to “Crabzilla” (anything over 2kg), served with a tasty array of sauces.
The next day I head for the southern coast. A new, superfast highway is under construction which will connect Colombo and Hambantota, my destination, in around two hours; but until that’s open, the drive can take between four and five. However, the beachfront scenery, particularly once you get to the sleepy seaside town of Galle, is well worth it. We stop here to stretch our legs and stroll around the fortified, Unesco heritage city, founded by the Portuguese in the 16th century. You can still walk through its imposing entrance gate, which sports the British coat of arms from when they took over the fort in 1796, and along the top of the grass-covered remains of the thick, brick walls. The town’s picturesque streets are lined with boutiques, cafés and jewellers (Sri Lanka is rich in gemstones, from sapphires to tourmalines), and we stop to sample a hopper, the traditional, delicate, pancake-like dish made from rice and coconut milk batter, eaten with curry.
Further along the coast, near the surfer town of Weligama, our driver stops to show us one of the country’s most iconic sights: the stilt fishermen. Though the tradition is dying out, for a small fee you can still photograph the canny ones who have worked out how to make it earn them money from tourists. For decades, the fishermen have built rustic-looking wooden constructions tied together with twine, to fish in the shallow waters of the ocean, and perch on them for hours; it’s an arresting image, and harder than it looks, as one beckons me to try it for myself. Suffice to say, I wasn’t going to be having fish for dinner that day…
Finally, after passing through a string of laid-back surf villages, and along palm-tree fringed beaches, we reach Hambantota, home to another Shangri-la resort. This one is far more geared towards relaxation, sitting along a wide stretch of coastline, and with its own golf course, three swimming pools, and a spa. You could, of course, take a tour to one of the beautiful nearby national parks, such as Udawalawe or Yala, in the hope of spotting leopards, elephants, monkeys or buffalo; or stop off at a tea plantation, like Handunugoda, to see how it’s handpicked and processed as it has been for centuries. And I will – but first it’s time to stop, take in Sri Lanka’s wild beauty, and simply revel in the fact that I’m on this utterly ravishing island.