Food & Drink
Dine in with thrilling whites from Alsace
If you like your white wines with an exuberant personality, head to Alsace. There is no other region in France where you can find such thrilling white wines with expressive aromas, textural richness and savoury vinosity all in one glass.
In this tiny region sandwiched between Germany’s river Rhine and the beautiful wood-topped Vosges mountains, the microclimate is so warm that Colmar, its largest town, is the second driest in France. The combination of warm temperatures, low rainfall and a mosaic of ancient soils aid grape ripeness, whilst retaining minerality.
The result is a foodie’s dream: an aromatic overload with a full palate making Alsace riesling, pinot gris and gewurztraminer the most food-friendly whites in the world . While prices are never cheap, the top wines are relatively inexpensive alongside Burgundy. Their quality is often more consistent and the nuanced dry, steely style is unique.
Interestingly, the drier, tighter more austere styles are made by negociant Protestant families like Trimbach, Hugel or Schlumberger, who often trained at Geisenheim in Germany – and their rieslings are often the best. The sweeter, textured, more ebullient styles are made by Catholic winemakers near Colmar who trained in Burgundy, like Rolly Gassmann, and major in pinot gris.
It might seem odd that pinot noir is Alsace’s oldest grape, as the region is dominated by whites, with 90 per cent of plantings. Reds for years have been disappointingly thin and pinot noir is also not allowed to be labelled Grand Cru, even if it comes from a designated vineyard.
A new generation of winemakers have been rethinking their approach to pinot noir. Strategies like reduced yields, selected sites and prolonged ripeness aided by a warming climate mean that wineries like Paul Blanck, Albert Mann, Olivier Zind Humbrecht
Rose Murraybrown and Martin Schaetzel are making impressive reds which deserves to be better known.
Sparkling Cremant d’alsace Mayerling Brut NV
Alsace’s sparkling cremants are hugely popular in France, but are barely known here. If you normally drink prosecco, try this stylish, floral, creamy, pinot blanc-based fizz instead.
£14, Woodwinters, Edinburgh
Dry white Muscat Kuentz Bas 2015
A good introduction to Alsace; a delicious blend of grapey, floral and honeyed fruits finishing dry from the masters of muscat, Kuentzbas. £12.50, www.thewinesociety.com
Muscat Turckheim 2016 Zind-humbrecht
In typical richly textured Zindhumbrecht style from ripe muscat grown on granite soils; zesty, slightly herby; serve with asparagus. £14, www.gonzalezbyassuk.com
Riesling Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim 2011 Gustave Lorentz STAR BUY
Mature diesel aromas, rich honeyed textural palate from a true Grand Cru. Serve with grilled trout or lightly spiced Thai chicken. £24, Exel Wines, Perth; Inverarity Morton, Glasgow
Pinot Gris Cuvée Albert 2015 Albert Mann
Old vine pinot gris from organic producer from Wettolsheim near Colmar who deserves to be better known; light smoke and honey aromas, spicy, expressive with rich intense flavours. £20, www.josephbarneswines.com; www.thegoodwineshop.co.uk
Off dry whites Pinot Gris Eichberg 2012 Kuentz-bas
Hints of caramel and vanilla, rich honeyed palate – a treat for anyone who loves bottleaged pinot gris to serve with risotto or mild creamy curry.
£22, www.thewinesociety.com
Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kirchberg de Barr 2010
Ripe fig and lychees, sweet nuanced palate with great depth from the superb 2010 vintage – sip on its own or with mature Munster cheese.
£22, www.armitwines.co.uk
Red Pinot Noir 2016 Paul Blanck
A good introduction to Alsace reds. Pale, delicate pinot with expressive cherry fruit aromas and gentle soft tannins; served slightly chilled, match with charcuterie.
£14.99, Waitrose
Pinot Noir Cuvée de Reserve 2015 Martin Schaetzel
Pioneer of the Alsace biodynamic movement, Martin’s son Jean Schaetzel makes this bright, juicy, vibrant red. A powerful example of the modern style. £18.99, Raeburn Wines, Edinburgh
Sweetwhite Riesling Vendanges Tardive 2005 Domaine Rolly Gassmann
A late harvested riesling from a very warm vintage; rich mature petrol aromas with hints of botrytis noble rot, waxy vinosity and green tea notes on the palate. Made by one of the most charming wine families in Alsace. Delicious with pâté or mild creamy blue cheese. n £25.65, Berry Bros & Rudd; Raeburn Wines