Hidden gems of France
This week I have been searching out lesser known wines, regions and grapes across France:
Sparkling Alsace: Cremant d’alsace Brut Cuvée Prestige NV Kuehn
Cremant d’alsace is France’s most popular sparkling wine, but only 10 per cent is exported, so UK wine lovers have yet to discover this fizzy bargain. Made using the same method as champagne, but with Alsace’s local pinot blanc grape – it is citric, appley with a creamy, nutty palate. £12.99, Virgin Wines, www.virginwines.co.uk
White Languedoc: Monrouby Grenache Blanc 2016
Fresh, unoaked, well-priced, full bodied Côtes de Thau white made by New Zealander Graeme Paul at Cave de Pomerols co-operative near Sete. Grapes are from low lying hills cooled by a string of lakes at Bassin de Thau in eastern Languedoc from the little known white version of the grenache grape. £8.99-£9.99, Beer Hive, Edinburgh; Fine Wine Musselburgh; www.rudewines. co.uk; www.eclectictastes.co.uk
Languedoc: La Revelation Chasan 2016
A limited release white from the rare chasan, a grape created in the 1950s by crossing chardonnay with the palomino grape of sherry renown. This chasan is made from low yielding 30 year old vines – it has a rich, creamy silky smooth palate with impressive length – it could certainly be confused with a white Macon.
£10.99, www.laithwaites.co.uk
SW France: Jurancon Sec 2015 Domaine Bellegarde
A wonderfully nervy, tangy, dry white from historic Jurançon, a forgotten region in the shadow of the Pyrenees, where the local dry Fohn winds keep the area warm and dry in the autumn when dry whites are picked. Pascal Labasse makes this vivid white from two little known grapes; 70 per cent gros manseng and 30 per cent caramalet grown organically.
£13.95, www.yapp.co.uk
Loire: Blanc De Franc SEC 2016 Couly-dutheil
An intriguing white wine made from red grapes. The skins of cabernet franc might be red, but as the juice is white it is possible to make a white wine if the skins are not left to macerate and the pulpy flesh is pressed gently. Made by Couly-dutheil, a well-known Chinon winery. £15, Woodwinters, Edinburgh, Bridge of Allan & Inverness, www.woodwinters.com
Loire: Montlouis Les Haut Husseau 2015 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups
If you normally drink vouvray or saumur, try their little known neighbour Montlouis from celebrated winemaker Jacky Blot. Locally known as the maestro of Montlouis, Blot has crafted a really stylish, poised, silky chenin blanc with zesty vivid acidity from old organically tended vines grown on calcaire soils in his special high Husseau plot.
£22, www.laithwaites.co.uk
Red Rhône: Vinsobres 2015 Domaine Croze-brunet
The Drome-based Vinsobres appellation, about 40km north of Chateauneuf du Pape, makes similar but slightly humbler reds from the classic southern Rhône trio of grenache, syrah and mourvedre. Soft, herby, spicy plum flavours.
£7.99, Lidl
SW France: Gaillac Rouge 2016 Chateau l’enclos des Roses 2016
From two obscure grapes, duras and prunelard grown north east of Toulouse on the banks of the Tarn. Duras gives peppery flavours; it may be related to petit verdot, whilst the ancient revered prunelard grape, similar to malbec, adds wonderful plummy spiciness to Gaillac red blends.
£10.95, The Wine Society,
www.thewinesociety.com
Roussillon: Grenache Noir 2015 Domaine Jones
Made by Englishwoman Katie Jones from 90 year old vines grown on rugged schist soils in Maury on the edge of the Garrigue. An astonishing vivid unoaked rendition of this peppery grape with lovely succulent ripe fruits. £12.50, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com
SW France: Cahors Cuvée Prestige 2014 Chateau Vincens
If you normally drink Argentinian malbec, this lush black fruited malbec from south west France will definitely suit. Made from 80 per cent malbec, 20 per cent merlot blend grown in a remote vineyard near Luzech in the beautiful Lot valley by brother and sister, Philippe and Isabelle Vincens. £9.99, Rude Wines, www.rudewines.co.uk
Rhône: Lirac Rouge 2015 Moulin des Chenes
A brilliant find from little known Lirac and star value buy at our recent Rhône tasting. Soft herby liquorice undertones, smooth sweet and unctuous red with tobacco undertones. If you normally drink Chateauneuf du Pape, head across the river to Lirac.
£14, Oddbins
Roussillon: Collioure Le Voile De Paulilles 2015
If you like your reds deep, spicy and gutsy try this 60 per cent grenache, 20 per cent syrah, 10 per cent mourvedre blend from sun-baked schistous slopes near the Frenchcatalan coastal region in the Pyrenees foothills. £11, reduced from £13, Marks & Spencer
Languedoc: Minervois Lo Paire 2013 La Croix St Jean
A fresh, juicy, spicy blend of predominantly grenache with syrah with a raspberry and smoky aroma and minerally tinge. Made by Michel Fabre in cool Les Causses on schist and limestone soils in the north east of Minervois.■ £21.99, Henderson Wines; Cornelius Wines; Herbies; Fine Wine Musselburgh; Vino wine shops, Edinburgh; Luvians, Cupar; Markinch Wine Gallery Join Rose’s Hidden Gems of France wine and charcuterie tasting at The Scores Hotel, St Andrews on Friday 18 May, £36, www.rosemurraybrown.com