Albarino, grape of choice for crisp summer whites
Noted for its distinctive botanical aromas and vibrant natural acidity, albarino has fast become one of the most fashionable white grapes for anyone looking for a crisp, dry, summery white.
However with a popularity boom comes overproduction and some Spanish albarinos are beginning to taste like just another sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio. So it is becoming more important to hunt for the best producers, who do not pick too early and keep yields low to enhance fruit concentration.
Albarino can be a light apple-flavoured quaffer under £10, but it can also achieve greatness as a fine white wine. At its best it is very refined with a thrilling mouth-watering acidity and lip-smackingly delicious peach and quince flavours developing with age in bottle.
Whilst the thick-skinned albarino grape originally comes from Galicia in northwest Spain where 5,000 hectares are planted, it is also found across the border in northern Portugal as an important grape in the vinho verde blend.
Albarino is now proving popular in New Zealand too, as some regions like Nelson share a similar maritime climate to Galicia. There are only 30 hectares to date, but with serious players focusing on albarino such as Villa Maria, Coopers Creek and Nautilus, we will definitely see more Kiwi examples of this grape.
One of our more interesting finds was from Uruguay, a country where albarino grows well in the damp maritime climate. The North Americans are also experimenting with albarino in Oregon, Washington State and California. Even the French have shown interest, having included albarino in their latest national register of permitted varietals.
It makes a great aperitif, but the best albarino has a rich textural palate with good balancing acidity, ideal for matching with rich seafood like scallops or monkfish.
Rias Baixas, Spain: Exquisite Rias Baixas Albarino 2017
An easy drinking example with crisp apple flavours underpinned with a hint of salty minerality; drink with or without food.
£6.29, Aldi
Uruguay: Colinas De Uruguay Albarino
Upfront tangerine and apricot aromas, full, rich, creamy palate finishing with freshness and a hint of minerality – an interesting find made in Uruguay’s Maldonado by Bodegas Garzon.
£8.50, Sainsbury’s
Rias Baixas, Spain: Caixas Albarino 2016
Light, crisp, zesty example with subtle, peachy flavours made by Martin Codax; a little dull in comparison to other wines in the tasting.
£8.99/£9.99, Majestic Wine
Gisborne, New Zealand: TE Awa Left Field Albarino 2017
A similar peachy fleshiness as in Spain, but with more tropical fruit notes, body and less acidity; they have used a touch of oak (10 per cent) to add texture. The best Kiwi albarino I tasted. Well-priced too. £12.50-£14, Ellies Cellar, Dollar/auchterarder/crieff/ Perth/helensburgh; www. nzhouseofwine.co.uk
Rias Baixas, Spain: Definition Albarino 2016
Majestic’s own label albarino is the best in their range, with more crisp apple and intense flavours here and pronounced tangy acidity.
£9.99/£11.99, Majestic Wine
Vinho Verde, Portugal: Soalheiro Alvarinho 2016
A clear favourite with tasters for its refined blossomy aromas, lip-smacking depth of flavour, intensity, steeliness and zippy dry freshness made by the talented Cerdeira family, the first to plant alvarinho on the Portuguese/ Spanish border in 1974. £16, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com
Rias Baixas, Spain: Zarate Albarino 2016
Very minerally and crisp with an appealing tautness, poised green apple fruits finishing with a pinpoint steely length. A biodynamic albarino grown on granite, made by historic family owned Zarate in the Salnes Valley. £17.99, www.lokiwine.co.uk; www.forestwines.com; £19.50, www.corksout.com
Rias Baixas, Spain: Pazo De Barrantes Albarino 2016
A hint of salinity here with a softer, rounder, creamier style benefiting from lees ageing made by the famous Marques de Murrieta who bought this Pazo in the 1980s. £17.50, Raeburn Wines, Edinburgh; Villeneuve Wines, Peebles & Edinburgh
Vinho Verde, Portugal: Casa Do Valle Vinho Verde Grande Escolha 2015
A slightly heavier partly oaked style of alvarinho, from an 18th century estate in the Basto subregion with alvarinho grown on granite and schist. Dry, incisive flavours, good concentration with a lingering finish. £15.99, www.theportuguese winecompany.com
Rias Baixas, Spain: Lagar De Cervera Albarino 2016
Zingy lemon and quince flavours, dry, zippy, vibrant with that typical sea breezy quality you get in Rias Baixas. Such great elegance too. Cervera is owned by La Rioja Alta who have achieved cult status for their albarinos. £15.50, www.tanners-wines. co.uk; www.armitwines.co.uk