There’s a seriously cool crowd in town

A sprawling residential area seized upon by artists and creatives, Palermo is the place to truly live like a modern day porteno. The best bars, independent boutiques and restaurants cluster around Palermo Soho, which has also become an open-air art gallery for accomplished street art. The scene exploded in 2001, at the height of Argentina’s financial crisis, and some of the most striking pieces – by artists like BA Paste Up and Nasepop – can be found in the area around Jorge Luis Borges Street. (Download a broader map of Buenos Aires graffiti at streetartfactory.eu/en)

This is also the city’s greenest area, with tree-lined parks, rose gardens and a swan-filled lake perfect for pedalos. Operating daily, the Palermo Through The Senses bike tour (ARS$125/£4.50) covers the key sights, including a statue by Rodin and a polo stadium where gauchos once played with a live duck. n Norwegian (norwegian.com/uk; 0330 828 0854) operates four weekly flights year-round direct from London Gatwick to Buenos Aires, on a fleet of new Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft with two cabins – Premium and Economy. Fares start from £275 oneway and £589 return in economy, and £640 one-way and £1,360 return in Premium.