Portenos revel in their romantic past
Once owned by rich families, San Telmo’s narrow “sausage” houses fell into the hands of poorer immigrants when an outbreak of yellow fever caused the wealthy set to move north. It was in these tiled courtyards that tango was born, a close and sensual dance banned in public places until the mid-19th century. Years later, it was popularised by singer Carlos Gardel.
One of the best remaining examples of these houses is El Patio del Tiempo in Pasaje de la Defensa, where bric-abrac stores fill the ground floor, and bohemian cafes and wine bars drift along the upper level.
Every Sunday, a craft market extends 1.4km from Plaza de Mayo along Defensa to Plaza Dorrego (10am-4pm), with local artists peddling avant-garde jewellery, trendy leather purses and towers of mate gourds. Head into the covered wrought iron Mercado de San Telmo for a fresh empanada; El Hornero sell their oven-baked pies for ARS$30/£1 each.