Kiwi pinot noir increases complexity with the price
New Zealand pinot noir is coming of age. It is now easier to find affordable examples which are consistently high in quality thanks to the increasing maturity of the vines and winemaking experience, but there has also been a tendency to over-commercialise the style at the cheaper end of the spectrum.
Under £10 you find few regional characteristics emerging, you just get sweet, easy drinking, soft styles which taste as if they could just as easily have been made in Casablanca Valley in Chile, rather than in South Island, New Zealand.
If you want to experience the distinction between New Zealand’s regional styles from the earthy, savoury Martinborough style, the fragrant, herby Nelson, sweet, cherry fruited Marlborough to the rich, plummy cassis fruit of Central Otago you need to spend at least £15.
And if you want to experience the best New Zealand pinots, prices are now heading over £30.
Under £10 New Zealand: Winemaker’s Selection Marlborough Pinot Noir 2016
A very lightweight New Zealand pinot noir, but if you want something pretty, sweet, juicy and easy-going with an appealing freshness, this is remarkably good value.
£6.99, Lidl
Marlborough: Exquisite Collection Marlborough Pinot Noir 2015
This has more fragrance, bright red fruits and a savoury undertone – slightly less sweet than Lidl’s version. It lacks complexity but is soft and easy going.
£6.99, Aldi
Marlborough: Devil’s Creek Pinot Noir 2015
A very thin, light Marlborough pinot noir – our tasters found it soft and easy to quaff, but did not rate it as worth the money.
£9.99/£11.99, Majestic Wine
Rose Murraybrown
Marlborough: Tinpot Hut Pinot Noir 2016
A clear favourite with tasters for its bright cherry fruit aromas, succulent ripe fruits, good finesse and linear structure with a generous plummy fruit to the palate and good length. £14.99-£15.95, Drinkmonger; Villeneuve Wines; Fine Wine Co, Musselburgh, Gloagburn Farm Shop, Provender Brown, Valhalla’s Goat
Marlborough: Momo Pinot Noir 2016
Made by Seresin, an estate at the forefront of biodynamic viticulture in Marlborough. Lightly austere with more structure, tannin and acidity than you normally expect in Marlborough – better served alongside lamb or duck rather than on its own. £11.50, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com
Marlborough: Jackson Estate Homestead Pinot Noir 2015
Soft, ripe, elegant pinot noir with gentle oaky undertones which was popular with tasters. Jackson Estate is based in the golden triangle in the Wairau valley.
£13.99, Waitrose
Nelson: Nelson Pinot Noir 2016 Seifried
Some of Nelson’s pinot noirs can be wonderfully fragrant complex and earthy, but this is not one of them. Our tasters found Seifried’s example disappointingly light and lacking in balance and ripe fruits.
£11, Marks & Spencer
Martinborough: Ata Rangi Crimson Pinot Noir 2016
You get a more classical restrained style from Martinborough’s southern exposure, cool breezes and cool nights which gives red cherry fruits, lively aromatic, chocolate, tobacco and an earthy, savoury, Burgundian feel to it. £22.99-£25, Drinkmonger; Lockett Bros; Bon Vivant; Fine Wine Co; www. thenewzealandcellar.co.uk
Marlborough: Dog Point Pinot Noir 2014
Black cherry and violet scents, lush, mellow, ripe, succulent, fleshy cherry fruits, hallmark spice and beautifully rounded soft, smooth tannins with integrated oak; richness from clay soils. One of Marlborough’s best. £28.50, Luvians; NZ House of Wine; Majestic Wine
Central Otago: Akarua Pinot Noir 2016
When first opened the aroma was very closed, but with time it showed a very spicy fragrance, lovely juicy black plum fruit mid-palate with lots of spicy undertones. It does have a hint of bitterness and a linear structure, but with lots of interesting character to make up for this. £17.99/£19.99, Exel Wines; The Cave, Glasgow; www. nzhouseofwine.co.uk
North Canterbury: Greystone Wines Pinot Noir 2015
Berry Bros’ own label exclusive from Greystone has very attractive fragrant pinot noir with sweet cherry fruits, herby undertone and overall good balance. Good value for this quality. £17.95, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com
Central Otago: Drumsara Pinot Noir 2013
With extra bottle maturity, this pinot noir has mellowed becoming quite attractive with spicy, bright berry fruits. Tasters scored this highly, but considered it overpriced. ■
£28, www.laithwaites.co.uk