Towering over the Valleys

Wendy Gomersall explores a Scottish monument on a Welsh hillside that’s a landmark for walkers

Head off for a long, leisurely walk through the pristine green landscapes of the glorious Towy Valley in South Wales and you’re bound to spot a mysterious stone mini-castle on the horizon at some time.

Looking a little out of place, perched in splendid isolation on a hilltop near Llanarthney, Carmarthenshire, striking Paxton’s Tower was built in 1811 – by a Scot.

Even more surprisingly, Sir William Paxton (1745-1824), a Scottishborn merchant and banker whose forefathers were from Auchencrow by Paxton, Berwickshire, was also an MP and the mayor of the county town of Carmarthen, the oldest town in Wales, of which it was once capital.

While in office, it is believed Paxton met Horatio Nelson. A great fan of the admiral, the mayor reputedly built the Gothic tower in honour of his hero after he was killed at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.

After admiring the monument from a distance, walkers can get up close, too. It’s just a short, steep climb up to the building, now under the care of the National Trust; admission is free.

In fact, this pocket of Wales offers ample scenic walking, whether you’re into yomping for miles, a gentle stroller, or something in between. There are plenty of sightseeing gems to take in along the way, too.

Carmarthen itself is worth a visit. The town is said to be the birthplace of Merlin, the wizard central to the legend of King Arthur. You can see the last piece of Merlin’s Oak in the museum – legend had it that if the tree was removed, the whole town would fall down.

Carmarthen is also renowned for its indoor market and gatehouse, all that remains of a medieval castle.

If you like castles, do head for Llansteffan, a 15-minute drive away, to see a wonderfully picturesque 12th century Norman castle and a beautiful beach – a 4.5km circular section of the All Wales Coastal Path takes in all the sights (www. walescoastpath.gov.uk).

Around 12 miles further on, there’s another castle at Laugharne, famously the home of Dylan Thomas. Here, the 27km circular Heritage Walk (laugharnetownship-wcc.gov.uk) takes in the writer’s famous drinking haunt, Brown’s Hotel, his Writing Shed and the Boathouse where he lived, as well as the castle and harbour. Pop in to the Ferryman Delicatessen for delicious provisions.

Heading east from Carmarthen, the National Botanic Garden of Wales

at Llanarthne is perfect for strollers. Once the site of Middleton Hall, the grand home of Sir William Paxton, it covers 568 acres and incorporates a National Nature Reserve and organic farm, and a newly opened British Birds of Prey Centre with golden eagles. There’s a great view of Paxton’s Tower from the Pi contemporary sculpture.

Aberglasney Gardens and house at Llangathen, near Llandeilo, is another gem – you may remember it from the BBC’S A Garden Lost in Time, which followed its restoration.

Today, it’s a heaven on earth, with more than 10 acres lovingly tended by head gardener Joseph Atkin and his team and a splendid Grade Ii-listed mansion. Don’t miss the Ninfarium, an indoor sub-tropical garden housed in the old kitchen area, and the Elizabethan Cloister Garden.

You can stay at Aberglasney, too, in one of the two delightful, luxurious holiday cottages beside the gardens.

Llandeilo, just a few minutes’ drive away, is an attractive town with a great range of independent shops. Choose from a 2.5km, 1.5-hour walk or longer 8km, 4½-hour route

Clockwise from main: Paxton’s Tower dates from 1811; Carmarthen; Aberglasney Gardens

to take in local sights, including the National Trust Dinefwr Estate and the Woodland Trust’s Nature Reserve – pick up a Llandeilo walks leaflet at the tourist office in Carmarthen or go online (www. discovercarmarthenshire.com).

Superb places to eat in town include the Ginhaus deli and Capel Bach Bistro at The Angel. Stock up on local goodies in delicatessens – Carmarthen ham, Caws Cenarth Cheese, Coaltown coffee, Etta’s Royal cake, Nomnom Chocolate…

But after a hard day’s walking, I heartily recommend restoring your energy levels at Y Polyn, Capel Dewi, between Carmarthen and Llandeilo, where the food is fantastic – chargrilled Welsh sirloin steak, braised shallots, red wine herb butter, French beans, beef dripping chips…

Or there’s Wright’s Food Emporium at the Golden Grove Arms, Llanarthne, where the pork belly cubano is magnificent. It’s also a great place from which to take a last souvenir photo of Paxton’s Tower posing majestically in the distance. ■

The town is said to be the birthplace of Merlin, King Arthur’s wizard

Aberglasney cottages (01558 668998, abersglasney.org) start from £350 for seven nights; check the website for late deals. For more, see www. discovercarmarthenshire.com