Pitched just right
Gaby Soutar discovers you don’t have to go back to basics for a weekend under canvas
The sun is flooding through the clear panels, making the room amber coloured, there’s a kettle humming on the stove, and, in between gazing out to the Firth, we’re all making strange noises. What could it be? Ah, we’re talking. Imagine. Actually chatting, with no telly to distract us.
So, THIS is why people like camping.
As someone who has always been averse to the idea of a holiday under canvas, I was persuaded to take my two nieces, along with my other half and sister, along to the new Catchpenny Safari Lodges at Ardross, in the East Neuk between St Monans and Elie.
They’re part of Canopy & Stars’ coterie of holiday lets, most of which are in a glamping style and include roulottes, wigwams, shepherd’s huts, lodges, tree and hobbit houses. They’re also big on family friendly places, with a new curated by kids collection (www.canopyandstars.co.uk/kids).
It seems that the market for this kind of experiential trip is huge, and not just among millennials.
Although the Catchpenny accommodation had looked amazing on the website – think Out of Africa style tents – I was still slightly scared, as I’d read something in the bumph about composting toilets. Sweet relief, then, when the owner, Alex, showed us round our tent, Yellowhammer, which sits in a lineup alongside another seven of these structures, including Kingfisher, Puffin and Curlew. In a solid construction at the rear of the space, not only was there a proper loo, but a hot shower.
There are other luxuries too – big soft beds in the twin, and two doubles with king-sized beds, one of which is a cosy cabin that’s built into the partition between the room and the living area.
Guests are also welcomed with fresh flowers, basics like tea, coffee, sugar etc, as well as battery-operated lanterns, blankets, hot water bottles with furry covers and a safe.
You can cook on a gas-powered hob and there’s a wood-burning stove, with some logs provided. It does take a while to generate heat, so despite the luxury elements, don’t expect the ambient temperature of the central heated home, you’re still in a tent. Even glamping has to be slightly character building, so take coats and lots of layers.
But, if the wind buffets the canvas, you could always dance to keep warm. We took a radio with us, though there is a good 4G signal if you want to tune in with your phone.
Anyway, as soon as the sun comes
out and hits the grassy hillside, this space transforms into a Bikram hot yoga studio. At that point, feel free to unzip all the panels along the sides and let the air in. There’s a glass fronted deck at the front door (if that is what you call the entrance to a tent), and a fire-pit. We cooked sausages bought from nearby Ardross Farm Shop, just a two minute walk away, and, while hanging out on our porch, attracted the attention of various walkers enjoying the Fife Coastal Path. They were so fascinated that we felt obliged to invite one of them in for a look around and felt as proud as if it was our own gaff, as she oooh-ed and aaah-ed.
Open the gate and scramble down the hill if you want to explore the beach. It’s soft and sandy in parts, with a dramatic rocky outcrop as you wind around the corner towards Elie.
On our visit, it was Bowhouse Food Weekend, which also runs this weekend and on the 8 and 9 September (10am-4pm, admission free).
We took a circular route to get there, past the various ruins and wild flowers on the way to St Monans, through the village and onto the pavement of the A917. This road leads
Clockwise from main: Catchpenny Safari Lodges at Ardross; the lodges have proper beds; the living area
back to the warehouse-like space that is Bowhouse on Balcaskie Estate.
You can’t miss it, with big white letters like the Hollywood sign along the side of the building. In the main area, there are stalls from various producers. We tried a new type of gin infused with gorse from Lundin Distilling, Unorthodox Roasters coffee, cakes, cheeses, and salmon.
There are also some lovely homeware and craft stalls, and a room with live music and street food, where we invested in gyoza and noodles from the Harajuku Kitchen pop up.
Just outside, the children might want to make friends with the Bowbridge Alpacas, three of whom were in attendance. Good luck with that. Though extremely cute, these toothy and fuzzy creatures had a forbidding and slightly murderous look in their eyes.
We scuttled away and back along the road to the safety and security of our tent.
Just as well that alpacas don’t know how to work zips. Prices start from £138 per night at Catchpenny (Ardross, Elie), each tent sleeps six people, see www. canopyandstars.co.uk For more about the Bowhouse Food Weekends, see their Facebook page or www.balcaskie.co.uk
It seems that the market for this kind of experiential trip is huge