Austria helps the world find a gru-vee kind of love
If you normally drink sauvignon blanc as your summer tipple, you might well enjoy the gruner veltliner grape. With its aromas of white pepper, celery and white blossom, sleek elegant palate with hints of spice and herbs and steely finish, gruner (or ‘gru-vee’ as it is known) can be one of the most engaging summer whites.
It is Austria’s highest quality white grape, grown here since the 18th century, now covering one third of the country’s vineyards, where it is made in a variety of styles. It is supremely fashionable as a youthful, refreshing, unoaked dry white in the ‘heurige’ inns around Vienna. Gruner veltliner can also be as assertively rich, textured and powerful as oaked white Burgundy, thanks to its thick skins which give the top gruner examples such a full, rich creamy mouthfeel.
One of the best gruner veltliner producers is Willi Brundlmayer in Langenlois in Kamptal region, who produces a range of textural styles on different soils from granite to clay and loess.
“It is our most important grape in Austria,” says Brundlmayer. His superb aged Alte Reben (old vine) gruner veltliners show what great potential the grape has for ageing, developing richness, lush apricot fruits, hints of cloves, figs and honey (Alte Reben 2013 is £28.99 from Raeburn Wines in Edinburgh).
Markus Huber in Reichersdorf in Weinvertel south of the Danube is a master at crafting inexpensive crisp, dry approachable styles of gruner veltliner. “It is a very fertile grape, so it needs careful yield control. For us it tends to grow best in deep loess soils,” he says.
The majority of gruner’s plantings worldwide are in Austria – but it is also grown in Hungary, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Germany and in northern Italy’s Valle Isarco region – and now it is becoming fashionable in the New World, from Oregon to Australasia.
Austria: Gruner Veltliner 2017 Weingut Huber
A bright easy-quaffing lightly aromatic style with hints of citric fruits, grass and pepper. A very good value introduction to gruner veltliner made by whizz-kid Markus Huber in Weinvertel.
£7.99, Waitrose
Austria: Gruner Veltliner Granit 2017 Domaine Wachau STAR BUY
Our tasters loved this deliciously zesty gruner with its green apple fruits and sleek poised minerally finish; could be drunk on its own, with seafood or light curry. One of three new Austrian wines in Lidl’s summer range. Well done Lidl.
£8.99, Lidl
Austria: Gruner Veltliner Kies 2016 Weingut Angerer
Another stylish example with vivid citric notes, fresh and steely with exotic fruit notes and an interesting smoky twist. Made by Kurt Angerer on his old family-owned estate in Kamptal who grow their gruner grown on granite terraces. £12.49, Virgin Wines, www.virginwines.co.uk
Austria: Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Weissenkirchen 2016 Domaine Wachau
An approachable style of gruner. Lightly spicy, hint of minerality – would suit those who like lighter, fresher examples. From the slopes between Weissenkirchen and Joching villages on the northern banks of the Danube in the Wachau heartland.
£10.99, Majestic Wine
Austria: The Society’s Exhibition Langenlois Gruner Veltliner 2017 Weingut Brundlmayer STAR BUY
A step up in richness and quality here with this beautifully textured, characterful gruner from Willi Brundlmayer’s steep Langenlois terraces. Loved its peach and citrus fruits, vivid racy acidity, sweet sour flavours, hint of spritz with a welcoming hint of creamy sweetness. Works well as a stylish aperitif, but better with charcuterie, asparagus or potted shrimps. £13.95, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com
Austria: Gruner Veltliner Federspiel 2017 Weingut Johann Donabaum
A smooth textured gruner from Wachau; starts with fresh citric fruits, with minty undertones, finishing with a hint of sweet honey on the palate. ‘Federspiel’ is a Wachau term indicating a lighter style. £15, Corking Wines; Strictly Wine
Austria: Gruner Veltliner Sonnhof Trocken 2016 Weingut Jurtschitsch STAR BUY
Lovely integrated acidity, zesty melon fruits, spicy with hints of white pepper, dry finish. £12.49, reduced from £14.99, Rude Wines, www.rudewines. co.uk
New Zealand: Gruner Veltliner 2017 Seifried Estate
A sleek, dry Kiwi example with gentle aromas of grapefruit and apple with ginger undertones and clean minerally finish. Grown by an Austrian family in Edens Road vineyard on the Waimea Plains in Nelson. £13.50, www.winedirect.co.uk; www.henningswine.co.uk
New Zealand: Gruner Veltliner 2016 Tinpot Hut
Richer textures here with this aromatic fruit bomb, with its juicy apricot and melon fruit flavours, floral notes and minerally finish. ■ £14.99, www.nzhouseofwine.co.uk; www.winedirect.co.uk