Manx for the memories
Visit the Isle of Man for its mix of history, scenery, museums – and wallabies, writes
Part of the British Isles and a British Crown Dependency, but not part of the UK or the EU. Our Queen is head of state, yet the island selfgoverns through the Tynwald, the world’s longest running parliament, which is more than 1,000 years old. Welcome to the Isle of Man, a stargazing destination with its own language still taught at Bunscoill Ghaelgagh, the world’s only Manx Gaelic primary school. It has its own currency too, though sterling is accepted everywhere. What’s more, the islanders are proud as punch to have been awarded UNESCO status as a world biosphere region – the first entire island nation to gain this accolade.
I hadn’t reckoned on the wallabies though – after all, this is an island in the middle of the Irish Sea, not Australia. I was on a guided wildlife walk in the Ballaugh Curragh – the latter is a Gaelic word meaning marshland or wetland – the region encompasses the remnants of an ancient lake which formed centuries ago in the lowlands between the Bride hills and the Manx upland. It’s a marvellous place to see butterflies of all descriptions and birds including hen harriers and peregrine falcons. An abundance of wild flowers also grow there. I didn’t believe the guide at first when he said there are around 120 wallabies living here too – until I saw a couple for myself that is. These herbivores thrive because there are no predators and a lot of habitat. The reason they are on the island is because a couple of them managed to escape some years ago from a wildlife park in the island’s north.
My base was the grand Victorian Regency Hotel in Douglas, the island’s capital, a captivating town with grand terraces, wide, sweeping beach, palm trees and a laid back atmosphere. One of the Isle of Man’s charms is its timewarped feel – I embraced that and enjoyed a ride on the Snaefell electric mountain railway which has pootled up and down the island’s highest peak since 1896. At the top on a clear day you can see Scotland, England, Ireland and Wales and get an idea of the island’s varied scenery. Probably the most glorious parts of this are found in the 17 officially designated National Glens.
They do like their railways here and the narrow-gauge steam railway is said to have inspired Thomas the Tank Engine. Then there’s the Douglas Bay horse tram which travels the length of the prom from May to September. The horses, known as ‘trammers,’ have an average working life of 15
years. Horse lovers like me need have no concerns about the welfare of the Shires and Clydesdales as I was told their working day comprises two return trips along the prom during the summer season with the rest of the year off. On retirement they move to the Home of Rest for Old Horses on the outskirts of Douglas. I went to visit the Home too, which also has a gift shop, café and small museum. The horses have a sweet temperament and many visitors buy them bags of horse food from the gift shop – you get a large bucket full for £1 and a small one for 30p.
On the west coast of the island is Peel, one of Britain’s oldest cathedral cities and home to an ambitious heritage attraction, the House of Manannan, named in honour of an ancient sea god. This interactive museum has reconstructions of sailmakers and coopers’ shops while characters tell stories from the island’s past. Peel has a great maritime tradition and is known for its oak-smoked Manx kippers. Close to the kipper factory is the Manx Transport Museum, smallest of the
Clockwise from main: Douglas seafront; boats moored up; Snaefell Mountain Railway
island’s museums which is brimming with ununsual exhibits including the P50 car from 1962. This is the world’s smallest road-legal car ever made.
Peel Castle, right by the harbour on St Patrick’s isle, was originally built by Norsemen in the Viking age. Inside the walls, I climbed to the gatehouse tower from where you can take in fabulous views right across the bay. Now in ruins, the castle has housed some celebrated prisoners including Eleanor, Duchess of Gloucester, who was accused of treason and sorcery against King Henry VI. Now they say her ghost haunts the cathedral crypt.
This pretty island with hospitable locals, undemanding pace of life, interesting visitor attractions and heritage transport is a unique, closeto-home destination. I look forward to coming back to the Isle of Man again to soak up the soothing balm of island life. ■ There are daily flights from a number of UK regional airports as well as
services from England and Ireland. www.steam-packet.com Airport car hire: https://aspcarhire. com Wildlife walks and crafts: www. willowmann.im For more information see www.visitisleofman.com
At the top of Snaefell on a clear day you can see Scotland, England, Ireland and Wales