Take another look at underrated Beaujolais
At last Beaujolais is making a comeback with more focus on quality and authenticity – and a move away from bulk production. If you like silky, supple, perfumed reds, the ten cru villages of Beaujolais can offer fabulous value in comparison to its northerly neighbour Burgundy.
One of the most charming Beaujolais crus is the evocatively-named Fleurie. It has a softness which makes it particularly appealing and approachable in its youth, in comparison to sturdier crus like Moulin-à-vent or Morgon.
Fleurie gained its name from the Roman general Floriacum and its first vineyards were planted in the early Middle Ages by Benedictine monks. It was expanded in the 15th century by the bourgeoisie from nearby Lyon and today has 890 hectares making it one of the larger of the cru villages (the whole Beaujolais appellation has 18,500 hectares).
Like all red Beaujolais, Fleurie is made from the gamay grape. In its youth it has attractive raspberry, violet and cherry notes with subtle earthy granitic undertones – but with age it can develop wonderful farmyard notes and layers of complexity, not dissimilar to pinot noir.
Fleurie is currently very undervalued – Beaujolais was in the doldrums in the 1980s and 1990s – but is only now resurfacing. This has not escaped the notice of both Burgundian and Rhône producers who have invested in the region.
One such example is Maxime and Antoine Graillot from Crozes Hermitage in the northern Rhône. They recently bought eight hectares in Fleurie and the other popular Beaujolais cru, Saint Amour. From Burgundy, Frederic and Chantal Lafarge from the much sought-after Volnay domaine in Côte de Beaune embarked on a new venture making very attractive Fleurie from their newly-purchased four hectare vineyard, which includes the
high altitude old vine plot of Joie du Palais.
Another interesting aspect of Beaujolais is that this region is also home to some of the most passionate young ‘natural’ winemakers. Julien Sunier, based in Avenas, is a name to watch in Fleurie making wine with real regional personality, focusing on ‘natural’ winemaking and biodynamic viticulture.
Many of the new winemakers are under 30 years old with energy and passion, often focusing on individual parcel bottlings, which is great news for a region undergoing revival. In Fleurie the vineyard names to look for are La Madonne, Poncie, Clos des Moriers, La Roilette and Chapelle des Bois.
There are of course old timers in Beaujolais too, such as the Tete family who have been making wine here since the beginning of the 19th century. Their Fleurie vineyards have perfect southern exposure so are particularly plummy, rounded and ripe – and their deliciously zesty gamay was a clear winner in our tasting – and was not even the most expensive.
In terms of vintages, many in our tasting came from the challenging 2017 vintage, where hail and drought caused problems for growers across the region. If you can find more mature Fleurie from 2016, 2015 and 2014 snap them up.
Fleurie 2017 Francoise Dubessy
Bright, fresh, juicy example with appealing blackberry aromas, initially soft and ripe, but with a slightly peppery finish. £7.99, Lidl
Fleurie 2017 Georges Duboeuf
Probably the best known Fleurie label; silky, soft, but quite simple in structure and fruit concentration compared to others in our tasting. £8.50, Sainsburys; £9.99, Majestic Wine
The Society’s Exhibition Fleurie 2017
Peardrop and raspberry aromas, light fruit on palate with soft and silky texture made by negociant Les Vins Aujoux. £10.50, The Wine Society
Fleurie La Bonne Dame 2017 Louis Tete
Very popular with tasters for its violet and cherry aromas, bright and racy with all-round juiciness and approachability with its soft silky texture and delicious dark chocolate notes. £15.95, Great Western Wine; £16.35, Exel Wines, Perth; Fine Wine Co Musselburgh
Fleurie Clos De La Roilette 2017 Domaine Coudert
Cuvée Tardive is a serious robust Fleurie from 60-yearold vines grown on limestone. Loved its smoky notes and juicy red fruits, but it should improve with age. £19.75, Lea & Sandeman
Fleurie 2016 Domaine de Fa
The Graillot family’s organic Fleurie has deep dark fruits with tea leaves and herb aromas with tangy fruits and lively acidity. £22, Yapp Bros
Fleurie La Tonne 2017 Domaine Julien Sunier
This is dark, serious and savoury with structure and quite grippy tannins from nine months in wood; currently too young to drink, but should improve in bottle. £27.50, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com
Fleurie Clos Vernay 2014 Domaine Lafarge Vial
Showing maturity with violet aromas, minerally core and firm gripping tannins which needs more time in bottle. £28.25, Corney & Barrow