Tradition is given a modern twist at Islay’s latest whisky distillery
With spectacular views, the first new facility on the isle in over a decade is now open – and it’s a dram come true, discovers Sean Murphy
Widely considered the spiritual home of Scotch whisky, Islay has been producing some of the world’s favourite drams for centuries. Everything about the Queen of the Hebrides screams whisky; from the white-walled distilleries spotted from ferry decks to the bags of freshly cut peat that lie by the side of many of the island’s roads. Though the story of our national drink may not have begun there, the island would definitely feature in the first few chapters of the autobiography of the uisge beatha under “formative years”.
It’s these factors that make it the ideal place to launch a new whisky production site and why Glasgowbased family firm Hunter Laing & Company chose it as the location for their own distillery, Ardnahoe, in 2016. The first to open on the island since Kilchoman in 2005, brothers Andrew and Scott Laing, and their father, Stewart, cited their “deep affinity” for the Hebridean island and its community as the inspiration behind their decision.
Stewart said: “I did my distillery training here with Bruichladdich in 1966 and had the time of my life, and the traditional whisky distillers and workers taught me a lot about whisky and imbued in me a deep love for Islay and its whisky.
When we decided to build our own distillery, there was only one possible location.”
Situated on the island’s northeast coast, Ardnahoe was officially opened last week at a ceremony led by Lord Robertson of Port Ellen following a £12 million investment in the project by the Laing family.
The modern distillery has a traditional mindset in keeping with the spirit of the island and expects to welcome 20,000 visitors each year, with up to 30 people – mainly islanders – employed in retail, dining, tours and other events.
Stewart said: “We have the cafe and retail experiences, tours and, of course, the incredible views out the front window – it really is the perfect blend to offer the best experience possible for our visitors.”
The distillery team, led by distillery manager Fraser Hughes, has already begun laying down casks and is producing a peated spirit for maturation in American ex-bourbon barrels and former Spanish sherry casks. Much like Islay neighbours Laphroaig and Ardbeg, its spirit will pack a punch on the peat scale at 40ppm but will use traditional equipment and methods such as wooden washbacks, long fermentation times, worm tubs and what is thought to be Scotland’s longest lyne arms to create a sweeter character to balance this smokiness. Stewart says: “We’ve built a great team to manage the distillery and run the visitor centre and in a few years’ time we will be able to drink a great whisky in the classic Islay style, staying true to the island’s heritage with a heavily peated malt.”
Speaking about the choice of equipment, Scott, who is business development director, said it could be the difference between them producing a good whisky and a “tremendous one”. He added: “Our reading and understanding of speaking to experts like industry veteran Jim Mcewan made us realise that investing in the right quality and style of equipment gave us the greatest opportunity to create the best possible spirit.”
The site has one of the most stunning views of any of Scotland’s distilleries, with the sweeping vista of the Sound of Islay and the Paps of Jura visible from the distillery’s glass-fronted still house and café.
Export director Andrew said: “We wanted the visitor experience to be at the heart of Ardnahoe. Our family business values and our distillery team, most of whom are islanders and steeped in the whisky industry, offer a warm Islay welcome to all who want to be part of the Ardnahoe journey. Ardnahoe is a distillery we all can be proud of.”