A dozen of Italy’s best hidden gems to savour
As the largest wine producing country in the world, Italy can be a minefield for the wine lover with its myriad of little known regions. To help you choose, we have selected unusual fizz, white, red and sweet gems to suit all tastes and budgets.
Sparkling Lombardy: Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut NV
Italian fizz has made a name for itself, but many UK drinkers are missing out on one of Italy’s best kept secrets, the prestigious Franciacorta fizz. Made by the same method and grapes as champagne, with a touch more ripeness, nuttiness and vinosity and the usual racy Italian zip.
£ 20, Woodwinters, Edinburgh, Bridge of Allan & Inverness, www. woodwinters. com
White Marche: La Calcinara Clochard Bianco 2017
Verdicchio with a just touch of chardonnay from Marche region on Italy’s east coast, once the historic borderlands of the Papal States. Best known for its gutsy reds, this rich textured tangy minerally white is a real discovery. It is named Clochard, which means vagrant in French, as the vines lie outside Verdicchio Castelli DOC boundary – so it is labelled as a simple IGT rather than DOC.
£ 19.95, Swig, www. swig. co. uk
Sicily: Zibibbo Organic Vitese 2018 Colomba Bianca
From Sicily’s dynamic Colomba Bianca cooperative, an enchanting muscat ( known locally as zibibbo) with lifted floral blossomy aromas, zesty tangy palate with very ripe citric fruits, but so bright and vibrant. Muscat is often used for sweet wines, but this is crisp and dry.
£ 11.69, Valvona & Crolla
Marche: Passerina Delle Marche 2018 Fazi Battaglia
You don’t often see the passerina grape on labels, as this old Marche variety is often swallowed up into blends with pecorino or trebbiano. At its best grown on Marche’s sunny hillside vineyards, it makes an enchantingly fresh apple and pear flavoured dry white with a distinctly spicy aftertaste.
£ 14.99, Valvona & Crolla
Lazio: Malvasia Puntinata ‘ Roma’ 2018 Principe Pallavicini
Malvasia puntinata is one of many rare versions of the malvasia variety found in Italy. This unoaked version smells like a cross between floral riesling and grapey muscat with highly aromatic notes.
£ 14.49/£ 15.99, Henderson Wines; Valvona & Crolla; The Cave; Cornelius Wines
Rosé Abruzzo: Cerasuolo d’abruzzo 2018 Fantini
This is the rosé version from the montepulciano grape produced amongst a sea of reds across four subzones in Abruzzo: the best from Teramo. It is enchantingly lively with light cherry fruits and vibrant acid bite.
£ 12.99, Valvona & Crolla
Red Sicily: Il Piccolo Vinding Monte Carrubo 2017
Syrah is not such an unusual grape, but it is in Sicily. This is made by legendary Danish winemaker Peter Vinding Diers who has landed in Sicily to explore its volcanic terroir, where he makes this very Rhône- like version of syrah with spice and pepper aromas and ripe smooth flavours.
£ 28.50, Swig, www. swig. co. uk
Veneto: Veneto Rosso ‘ Soraie’ 2016 Cecilia Beretta
A fabulous bargain for Amarone lovers. The Pasqua family use the same method partially drying grapes prior to fermentation to enhance aroma, glycerol, raisiny depth and flavours. Cherry fruited, silky smooth, juicy raisiny with hints of spice.
£ 11.95, Corney & Barrow www. corneyandbarrow. com
Sicily: Nerello Mascalese Micina 2018 Fantini
Our tasters loved this meaty, earthy, blackfruited red with its hints of vanilla and burnt earth. Quite pricey, but this noble Sicilian grape grown around Etna has so much character and depth even at such a young age. Its ethereal notes reminded me a little of nebbiolo grape, so if you are a barolo fan try this Sicilian gem.
£ 16.59, Valvona & Crolla
Lazio: Cesanese Rubillo 2017 Pallavicini
Incredible blackberry and mulberry aromas with a surprisingly light palate ( ideal for summer drinking). Soft cherried fruits and velvet smooth initially with a hint of bitterness on the finish.
£ 14.99, Valvona & Crolla
Sweet Umbria: Orvieto Classico Superiore Muffa Nobile ‘ Calcaia’ 2015 Barberani
This Umbrian dessert wine really does rival the best botrytis wines with its incredible aroma, smooth soft palate and clean dry finish.
£ 25 for 50 cl bt, The Wine Society, www. thewinesociety. com
Veneto: I Capitelli Bianco Dolce 2015 Anselmi
Winemaker Roberto Anselmi is based in the heart of Soave Classico, but refuses to use the name Soave. Capitelli refers to the chapels in the vineyards which have the best sun exposure. Honeyed apricot and pineapple flavours, rich spicy and sweet – but finishes long and dry like all the best sweet wines. n
£ 20 hf bt, Fine Wine Co Musselburgh; £ 25 hf bt, Great Western Wine