West still best in London

The East End may have been gentrified, but Ross Mccafferty feels at home in classy Kensington

Those who claim east London is the best part of the UK’S largest city for tourists and weekend visitors certainly have a

case.

The 2012 Olympics, investment in transport, and a number of gentrification projects have turned formerly unfashionable areas such as Peckham, Lewisham, Hackney, and Stratford into powerhouses of good food, good company, and culture.

However, for an experience that brings those things plus a real sense of the history of London and its legendary shopping, art, and green spaces, tourists can’t do better than an area like South Kensington.

It is there, around five minutes’ walk from the South Kensington tube station, past a Ferrari dealership that serves a reminder of this area’s reputation for affluence, you will find the 100 Queen’s Gate Hotel.

It was once the home of Victorian aristocrat William Henry Alexander, and its tasteful renovation has embraced the building’s heritage by retaining much of the original 19th century architecture. WH Alexander was well-renowned in his day for his wealth and largesse, but also for his collections of exotic trinkets from the far corners of the world.

Our Queen’s Gate king room was ideal to experience the blend of modern and heritage, with a wellappointed bathroom and wide screen TV and espresso maker sitting alongside an in-room phone with artefacts and posters that recall the building’s style in its Victorian pomp.

The complimentary soft drinks in the mini-bar made it difficult to even conceive of exploring the area, but the siren call of the boutiques and cafes of Kensington proved too hard to resist.

For those who love to shop, there are designer outlets and independent shops galore. Kensington truly embraces the cafe culture most synonymous with cities like Paris, and as home to the French consulate, there is more than a little taste of the Gallic chic about the area to enjoy.

Afternoons can be easily whiled away sampling some charcuterie and a glass of red outside a cafe, an experience made all the more delightful if you are favoured by the weather.

The French connection is felt again back at the Queen’s Gate Hotel, with their restaurant offering a contemporary twist on the Frenchbritish fusion cuisine that has dominated restaurants and local palates in the South Kensington area for several decades.

That makes for a series of difficult choices when it comes to selecting what to have for the evening meal, and something I am left to ponder when eyeing my partner’s seafood bouillabaisse starter, although my pan-seared scallops with charred pears certainly takes a bit of beating.

We both opt for beef for the main course, although the restaurant also proves no slouch when it comes to fish, with the sea bass and sole a neighbouring table enjoyed looking particularly delicious.

My partner’s surf-and-turf with peppered sirloin and jumbo prawns goes down a treat, while my mediumrare côte de boeuf falls off the bone, such is its tenderness.

For once we let down our Francophile sensitivities as we opt for a pair of red wines from Italy and Argentina respectively.

From there, we can retire to the comfy room to let the food settle in luxurious surroundings, or enjoy a nightcap at the bar on the ground floor, where we sample another perfectly mixed and innovative cocktail in further modern/classic surroundings while a piano player offers a tasteful accompaniment.

Clockwise from main: the Botanica tearoom at 100 Queen’s Gate Hotel; a bedroom; one of the lounges

During the day, Queen’s Gate Hotel’s main offering comes at the Botanica tearoom, with a number of enticing choices for afternoon tea set amid a classy atrium and lavish greenery.

The teas are specially selected from Whittards, based nearby in Chelsea, while pastries and savouries go down well with a hot drink or even champagne for those determined to get the most out of a stay defined by luxury.

A breakfast buffet again relies heavily on the theme of Britishfrench fusion, with cooked fullenglish classics sitting alongside freshly baked bread and pastries.

For those keen to experience more of the area, there are even more shops to explore, with my maxim of never turning my nose up at a charity shop proving fruitful – as the designer brands that left me agog at the price can often be found much cheaper for a good cause.

The restaurant is also close to the Museum district, with the Natural History Museum never failing to impress and inspire. ■

The teas are specially selected from Whittards, based nearby in Chelsea

Rooms at 100 Queen’s Gate Hotel, Kensington, London SW7 5AG (tel: 020 7373 7878, email: info@100queensgate.com) start from £211