Dram fine in Speyside
There’s a warm welcome and whisky waiting at the Craigellachie Hotel, finds Will Slater
As romantic getaways go, the Craigellachie Hotel has it all. Beautiful location in Speyside. Check. Crackling wood fires. Check. Four poster with sumptuous bedding, soft furnishings and throws from Johnstons of Elgin. Check. Warm welcome. Check. Good food and buzzing bar. Check.
We had got an early Friday cut and dashed from Edinburgh over the bridge, hacking up the A9 through heavy traffic and rain. Shrouded in darkness, we arrived in time for a pint (or two) at the hotel’s Copper Dog bar, where two guys are playing fiddle and guitar by the fire. We’re tired and happily work our way through a burger and chips, before turning in for the night.
The next morning, as sunlight floods into the room, we are better able to gauge our surroundings. The hotel, just off the A95 and close to where the Spey and the Fiddich meet, was built in 1893 and has 26 rooms. It’s all wood panels and wellies by the door, with a hint of woodsmoke from the roaring fire in the reception area.
Breakfast is a bit of an event, with locally sourced produce named on the menu, including sausages from Royal’s of Elgin, bacon from Ayrshire, haggis and black pudding from Grants of Speyside and gorgeous cold-smoked salmon from Sutherland’s of Portsoy.
It is as bright and fresh as it had been wet and miserable the day before, so the charms of Speyside await. Known for its whisky distilleries, it’s only as you drive around and start counting off the iconic names of distillers that you fully grasp what an important part it plays in the area. Cardhu, Aberlour, Ballindalloch and Macallan, the latter with a vast multi-million pound visitor centre which opened in 2018, are all close by. We are more in search of fresh air and a walk, so head for Lossiemouth. Hardy surfers are hitting the waves of the East Beach, but we are not able to watch them close up because the footbridge allowing access to the beach is shut (it was closed last July due to safety concerns but will reopen at some point as the Scottish Government has pledged to fund its repair or replacement). Instead, we head to the coastal resort’s West Beach, where we potter towards Covesea Lighthouse, picking up stones and drawing in lungfuls of air watching the hypnotic rush of the waves and the sparkle from the winter sun.
Heading towards Elgin, we pass the RAF camp, a Quick Reaction Alert station, where four squadrons
of Typhoon jets and P-8A Poseidon Maritime Patrol Aircraft are stationed. Aircraft fans or simply the curious should also seek out the Buccaneer petrol station in the town, which has an EX-RAF Lossiemouth Blackburn Buccaneer military jet on its forecourt.
We stop in Elgin at the ruins of its magnificent cathedral. With parts dating back to the 13th century, it is breathtakingly beautiful. Now managed by Historic Environment Scotland, it is open daily to explore or there are daily tours (£9 adults, www. historicenvironment.scot).
Close by is Johnstons of Elgin, which since 1797, has been making gorgeous cashmere and wool garments. It happens to be the first day of its annual sale and we are each handed a bin bag as we enter a marquee filled with knitwear and coats. It is very hard to resist the deep discounts on such lovely stuff. Several hundred pounds lighter but with merino wool and cashmere jumpers, scarves and a coat so beautiful I feel like a king wearing it, we stumble out and head back to Craigellachie.
Before dinner, rather than head down to the Copper Dog, we instead go to the Quaich, which claims to be
Clockwise from main: the Copper Dog bar; the exterior of the Craigellachie Hotel; a Comfy Luxe room
the world’s leading whisky bar. With 900 whiskies from around the world, there are certainly plenty of them. It’s a handsome space with glass shelves and lights illuminating the bottles of gold. Connoisseurs can disappear into page after page of whisky descriptions but we let ourselves be guided to a flight of three different whiskies. There are various ones based around theme and price. It goes down nicely and if we want more, there’s always the decanter of Copper Dog whisky – the hotel’s own Speyside blend, which can also be bought in the bar or by the bottle to take home – in the room to enjoy too.
After our busy day we are ready for feasting and we both devour scallops to start followed by ribeye steak with hand cut chips and a green salad. Heaven. As we pick up our wine glasses and what remains of the bottle of red and head to the bar, we relax in the knowledge there’s another breakfast to enjoy tomorrow and more of Speyside to explore before heading home. ■
Cardhu, Aberlour, Ballindalloch and Macallan are all close by