The grape expectations of Spain’s thriving wine scene Red
Spain is one of Europe’s most dynamic wine countries with a revolution in quality winemaking across regions. It is also host to a fascinating array of unusual grapes being revived including merseguera, hondarrabi zuri and godello for whites to bobal, mencia and sumoll for reds – try out our favourite bargains.
White Rias Baixas: Albanta Albarino Sobre Lias 2018 Bodegas Alto De Torona
The albarino grape is now the height of fashion, but some cheaper examples can be a bit insipid. This example from Horacio Araujo’s hillside plots in Tomino in the Rosal subzone of Rias Baixas on the Portuguese border is an outstandingly good value example with rich, pure fruit notes and a rich creamy palate. £7.99, Aldi
Monterrei: Winemaker Series Godello 2018
One of the best value examples of godello I have tasted, made by winemaker Katia Alvarez at the large Martin Codax in Galicia in north west Spain. This grape was on the verge of extinction in the 1970s, but thanks to the Godello Revival project there are now more than 1,000 hectares in Spain. £9.99/£11.99, Majestic Wine
Castilla: Mas Querido Field Blend 2018 Jesus Del Perdon
I did not know quite what to expect tastewise from this field blend, which is a random mix of different grapes grown in the same vineyard and co-fermented – it’s an ancient approach to winemaking being revived worldwide. It is distinctively grapey and floral on the nose, lemony, fresh, dry. £6.99/£7.99, Majestic Wine
Bizkaiko: ‘Marko’ Bizkaiko Txakolina 2014
This intriguing Chacoli is made by Oxer Bastegieta in the Basque country. The hondarrabi zuri grapes are picked late and lees aged post fermentation. With bottle age this develops into a fascinating pale gold dry white.
£13.99, Raeburn Wines
Valencia: Mestizaje Blanco 2018 Bodegas Mustiguillo
From little-known almost extinct merseguera grape, with a little help from 23 per cent viognier and 11 per cent malvasia in the blend. Toni Sarrion of Mustiguillo, who grows merseguera at 900 metres altitude to retain its acidity, has made a beautifully elegant blend showing a floral and tropical fruit bouquet. £15.50, Berry Bros & Rudd
Jerez: Exceptional Harvest Px 2017 Ximenez-spinola
Made from late-harvested pedro ximenez grapes left on the vine. Winemaker Antonio Zarzana at Ximenez-spinola winery just outside Jerez in Andalusia works solely with the tricky thin-skinned PX grape. With unique figgy aromas, natural sweetness and a lovely creamy texture. £22.99, Luvians, Cupar
& St Andrews; Fine Wine Musselburgh; Noble Green Wines; The Whisky Exchange
Navarra: Graciano 2017 Vina Zorzal
The ancient graciano grape is one of the unsung heros of Spain – and with its ability to tolerate drought and extreme heat we will definitely see more of it in the future. Gutsy, spicy and savoury.
£8.50, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com
Catalunya: Autocton Vinyes Velles Celler 2015
Autocton means local indigenous – and here the native sumoll grape is highlighted from old vineyards in the south of Montsant on the border of Penedes and Taragona. I loved its sappy dark fruits, herby notes and peppery finish. £15.95, Lea & Sandeman, www.leaandsandeman.co.uk
Toro: El Picaro 2019 Bodegas Matsu
Very eye-catching label with real life photo of vinegrowers – who after all are the most important people and often get forgotten by big wineries. This 100 per cent tinta de toro (Toro region’s name for tempranillo) is made from 50-70 yr old vines, fermented in concrete and aged for just a short time in new French oak. This is quite subtle for Toro with liquorice notes, dark chocolate; savoury and spicy. £8.99/£9.99, Majestic Wine
Utiel-requena: Toro Loco Organic Red 2018
There are several wines with similar Toro Loco labels in Aldi, so make sure you pick this Organic Red – which is superb value. For under a fiver, it has crunchy fruits, and is soft, smooth and easy going. £4.99, Aldi
Ribeira Sacra: Almanova 2018 Almadasdonas
Mencia, northwest Spain’s popular red grape, is like a Spanish equivalent to pinot noir with its pale colour, light, bright, raspberry fruits and smooth soft tannins. Made by a small winery, Almadasdonas, right on the banks of the River Sil near Lugo.
£12.95, Drinkmonger Edinburgh & Pitlochry
Utiel-requena: Solo Tinto 2017 Bodegas Aranleon
Utiel-requena in southeast Spain is known for its awkward bobal grape, which can make quite rustic reds with austere tannins. This is one of the more interesting and approachable examples, although there are certainly dry tannins present. ■ £9.50, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com