South African wine with a real good, feelgood factor
South African wineries have been hit harder by the pandemic than those of any other wine country – and what is happening right now in the wine estates of the Western Cape is verging on catastrophic. South Africa is Africa’s worst affected country with more than 275,000 cases of coronavirus – so for the second time since March, their president, Cyril Ramaphosa, has imposed a domestic ban on all alcohol sales “to take pressure off the health system,” in addition to night time curfews.
“There are no tourists and currently no travel between provinces allowed – but we are hoping that we might get South African tourists this year who would normally travel abroad. Normally our winery has 70,000 visitors to our tasting room annually
– but this year nothing,” says Jean-claude Martin of Creation Wines in Walker Bay region near Hermanus.
Exports are still allowed, so Cape wine lovers abroad can yet enjoy their favourite chenin blanc and pinotage. Various initiatives are springing up to help save jobs in the ailing wine industry, including Mind Map Wine from winemakers Bruce Jack, Ross Sleet of Rascallion negociants and De Villiers Graaf of De Grendel. The team are shipping wines to the UK at their own expense in the hope of selling them directly to consumers – and Jack hopes further wineries will join them. Webinars, online tastings and live chats with winemakers direct from the Cape are helping to revive wine sales here – including my own South African winemaker virtual tastings with JC Martin of Creation Wines as well as Charla Bosman and David Trafford of Sijnn Wines in association with Raeburn Wines. This month Great Grog are promoting three bottle packs with online tastings with Cape winemakers Catherine Marshall, Danie Steytler and Suzette van Rensburg of Lemberg Estate – and some Cape wine estates like Neethlingshof and Waterkloof host weekly Facebook Live and Instagram tastings.
South Africa has a wealth of wine styles and its wine quality has never been so good – here are some of my favourites.
Sparkling Franschhoek: Le Lude Methode Cap Classique Brut NV
For anyone looking for quality Cape fizz, Le Lude is an exciting newcomer with a batch of very fine traditional method cuvées. Focusing only on Method Cap Classique, with their first vintage in 2012, this chardonnay/pinot noir blend matured for three years on lees is their entry level cuvée – initially tightly knit, succulent citric and pear notes, creamy mousse – excellent quality.
£29.99, www.htfwines.co.uk
White Stellenbosch: Waterkloof Circumstance Chenin Blanc 2018
From one of Stellenbosch’s most windswept vineyards just two miles from the ocean, Waterkloof is owned by the English Boutinot family who focus on organic and biodynamic methods. So luscious and zesty with honey and citric flavours and a succulent mouthfeel.
£15, Woodwinters
Robertson: Springfield Estate Special Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc 2019
Springfield is another of my Cape favourites, with a superb range – perhaps best known for their sauvignon blanc. Minerally, citric, beautifully made, flinty with succulent concentrated limey fruits. £9.99, reduced from £12.99, Waitrose until 25 August
Walker Bay: Creation Reserve Chardonnay 2018
Burgundian grape varieties have found a home in Walker Bay region near Hermanus. This is a step up from Creation’s standard chardonnay equalling village level Burgundy – with its apple and honey bouquet, buttery rich with cinnamon and vanilla oak undertones.
£26.50, Creation Wines UK
Rosé Swartland: Porcupine Ridge Rosé 2019
A screw-capped pink bargain from Boekenhoutkloof, creators of the Chocolate Block. A classic rosé made using the saignee method, predominantly made from syrah with a hint of cinsault. Redcurrant, strawberry, nectarine and melon flavours, plus a hint of spice and herb, dry on the finish.
£5.99, reduced from £8.49, Waitrose until 25 August
Red Stellenbosch: Rustenberg Stellenbosch Malbec 2018
If you normally buy Argentinian malbec, try this rich opulent dark berried Cape version. Rustenberg are masters at Bordeaux-style blends, with maturation for 15 months in French oak. £8.99, reduced from £11.99, Waitrose until 25 August
Walker Bay: Creation Reserve Pinot Noir 2019 Creation Wines
Creation’s reserve pinot noir has extra depth, concentration and weight in comparison to its standard estate blend. Berry fruits, cherry and kirsch flavours, spicy and intense on the palate with soft tannins. £29.50, Creation Wines UK
Malgas: Sijnn Red 2016
From a new winery on the Breede river. David Trafford discovered a remote ostrich farm with soils similar to Chateauneuf du Pape and Douro valley – hence his choice of French and Portuguese grapes. ■ £30.65, Raeburn Fine Wines
Join Rose’s virtual wine tastings in the comfort of your own home, www. rosemurray brown.com