The Scotsman

Support Lebanon by helping its winemakers

- Rose Murraybrow­n @ rosemurray­brown

The grape harvest has started in the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon – and the 2020 harvest is looking really good. A great quality vintage is exactly what the Lebanese wineries need right now, as they battle with huge economic and social difficulti­es.

Last year we watched the People’s Revolution, so full of hope for a future free from political corruption, but this year Lebanon has been in a full blown financial crisis – which has had a significan­t effect on the country’s 50 wineries.

“This financial crisis has had a massive impact on our costs – and export channels are now our lifeline,” says Faouzi Issa of Domaine des Tourelles winery.

Then on Tuesday 4 August with the catastroph­ic explosion in the port of Beirut came more suffering with 200 killed and more than 4,000 injured. Staff from Chateau Musar and Chateau Massaya wineries lost their lives in the blast. Now they are all struggling with the damage wreaked by the explosion, financial implicatio­ns and the increasing number of Covid- 19 cases creeping through the country.

“Wine is one of Lebanon’s highest profit exports and brings much needed export dollars into the country,” says Madelaine Waters who promotes Lebanese wine in the UK.

Various initatives have now sprung up in the UK to aid Lebanese wineries: from Waters’ own online wine auction Bid for Beirut, a oneoff special Lebanese case offer at The Wine Society which saw record demand – to numerous wine webinars and zoom tastings promoting Lebanese wine. Some Lebanese wineries like Chateau Massaya are donating £ 10 to the Lebanese Red Cross for every case a wine merchant ships out of the country.

So if you buy just one of these bottles listed you will also be helping the people of Lebanon, even in a small way.

White

Domaine des Tourelles White 2019

Made by one of the oldest Lebanese wineries – founded in 1868 – now run by its charming owner Faouzi Issa, who worked in Rhône and Bordeaux before returning to his family winery. This is a fabulous example of how good Lebanese whites can be. Very bright, aromatic, zippy white with nutty, herby undertones. £ 11.95-£ 13.50, Woodwinter­s; Great Grog; Bon Vivant; Valhalla’s Goat; St Andrews Wine; Hennings Wine; Flagship Wines

Rosé

Chateau Ksara Gris de Gris 2018

Lebanon’s oldest winery – founded 1857 by Jesuit priests – produces this enchanting rosé with a hark back to its French colonial past using Rhône grapes cinsault and grenache gris. Loved this pale copper rosé – quite minerally with very vibrant acidity. Quite surprising­ly fresh and zippy from such a warm climate.

£ 10.99 -£ 12.99, Turton Wines; Simply Wines Direct

Red

Domaine des Tourelles Red 2017

Another cracker from Domaine des Tourelles. If you normally drink Côtes du Rhône, you will love this Lebanese blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon, cinsault and carignan. Such an elegant polished red, not as earthy and exotic as some Lebanese reds – but a big favourite with our tasters.

£ 12 -£ 12.95, Woodwinter­s; Great Grog; Bon Vivant; The Wine Society; Valhalla’s Goat; St Andrews Wine

Hochar 2017 Chateau Musar

Musar fans will love this ‘ second label’, which is effectivel­y a single vineyard wine from the southern part of Bekaa Valley, 30km drive north of Beirut. This wine is the usual Lebanese jumble of grapes from Rhône, Bordeaux and Languedoc: with cinsault, carignan, cabernet sauvignon and grenache noir blend. Stewed plum aromas, earthy, leathery undertones, light oak notes with a spicy finish.

£ 13.50-£ 14.95, The Wine Society; Raeburn Fine Wines; Joseph Barnes Wine; Noble Green Wines; Slurp

Massaya Le Colombier 2018

Massaya winery is one of Lebanon’s most impressive newcomers, an old winery revived by the Ghosn brothers. This is made from a Rhônestyle blend with a dash of Spanish tempranill­o from 40 year old vines on high altitude hillside slopes. A style made for early drinking – with gentle spice, strawberry aroma and spicy peppery undertones.

£ 13.95, Buon Vino; The Whisky Exchange; The Wine Society; Tanners; Lea & Sandeman

Chateau Musar 2013

Lebanon’s best- known winery is now run by the third generation: Serge’s sons Gaston and Marc and Ronald’s son Ralph continue to use the same natural authentic methods started by founder Gaston Hochar back in 1930. This winery has seen so much, from direct shelling, to using cellars as a bomb shelter for local people – and now in 2020 they face new challenges. Let us celebrate their astonishin­g history with their current 2013 release ( Serge Hochar’s last vintage) with its soft, smooth forward fruits, ripe flavours, leathery, spicy and distinctly exotic notes. Musar is, of course, well known for its ageing ability – so if you are feeling flush try Chateau Musar 1977, £ 265 bt, from The Wine Society instead.

£ 27, The Wine Society; Raeburn Fine Wines

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Join Rose’s Virtual Wine Tastings in the comfort of your own home, www. rose murray brown. com

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