Eco concerns drives new demand for wine in a box
Bag- in- box wine has been enjoying a surge of interest since lockdown began, which has taken many retailers by surprise, with supermarkets reporting up to a massive 300 per cent increase in demand from last year.
Once a symbol of cheap wine, alternative packaging from bag- in- box, pouches and ‘ bagnums’ to single serve cans is now enjoying a renaissance.
In the past the problem with boxed wine was often the quality of the wine, but now an increasing number of premium wines are being sold in this format – and crucially some are organic, biodynamic and even natural or low-intervention wines.
Buying a bag- in- box can often offer good value – and once opened they last much longer than an opened bottle of wine. Once you have broken the seal on your bag- in- box tap, some of the wine boxes state they stay fresh for up to six weeks – useful during lockdown for a reduced number of shopping trips.
The recent rise in demand is also believed to be linked to a renewed focus on environmental issues, as lockdown has accelerated interest in health and wellbeing.
“One easy- to- remember rule is: the lighter and more recyclable the packaging, the smaller its climate impact … glass bottles generate the most emissions and greatest environmental impacts per litre of beverage, while boxed wine generates the smallest,” states Alko’s report from Finland.
“This new data shows wine boxes have a carbon footprint up to 10 times lower than bottles,” says Rebecca Roberts, co- founder of BIB Wine Company. “The other issue is that a lot of green and brown glass is not recycled despite entering the recycling scheme, as the market demand for coloured glass is not always good,” she adds.
BIB, launched in 2018 by four siblings, is one of the most interesting newcomers, aimed at the luxury market. Taster packs ( 6 x 100ml pouches £ 25) with online tasting are a good way of sampling their range, before committing to a box.
Another interesting new addition in the market is Waitrose’s organic veganfriendly ‘ wine- in- a- tube’ from Orion Wine, looking like swish paint- tins. Frustratingly there is no mention on their packaging how long wine stays fresh, but their wine buyers suggest only 10 days after opening.
One of the issues with bagin- box is that whilst the cardboard is easily recyclable, the inner bag with tap cannot always go through normal recycling systems – although Waitrose state that theirs can. Some supermarkets and special council recycling points accept bags ( taps should be separated from bags for recycling); BIB introduced a freepost return- scheme, but I doubt many will return used bags in the post.
Another new development is the ‘ bagnum’ wine pouch. M& S moved from larger bagin- box to 1.5 litre slimline pouches; a perfect fit for inside UK fridges. Bagnums cannot be recycled in local schemes, so must be returned to M& S Take Back schemes.
Check out my pick of boxed wines on the market:
White Puglia, Italy: Maree d’ione Organic Fiano 2019
Pale gold, light apricot and peach aromas, smooth creamy, honeyed notes and steely undertones. Appealing dry white in large paint- tin tube. £ 25.99 for 2.25 litres ( equivalent to 3 x 75cl bts; £ 8.67 bt), Waitrose
South Africa: Fairtrade Chenin Blanc/ Semillon/ Colombard 2019
Plenty of tropical fruit notes, full opulent fruit initially on palate, this blend from Breedekloof valley is excellent for under a fiver ( per bottle).
£ 18.50 for 3 litres ( equivalent to 4 x 75cl bts; £ 4.62 per bt), Co- op
Hungary: Dry Furmint Tallya 2019
Orchard fruits, spicy undertones, rich textural palate, minerally undertones and a long dry finish; supersmart packaging – an excellent example of bag- in- box renaissance.
£ 38 for 2.25 litres ( equivalent to 3 x 75cl bts; £ 12.67 per bt), www. bibwine. co. uk
Red Puglia, Italy: Terre Di Faiano Rosso 2019
Outstanding favourite for its super- ripe red fruit aromas, smoky vanilla undertones, opulent flavours and velvet smooth texture; ripe primitivo/ negroamaro/ cabernet sauvignon blend packaged in large tube.
£ 25.99 for 2.25 litres ( equivalent to 3 x 75 cl bts: £ 8.67 per bt), Waitrose
Chile: Fairtrade Chilean Red Blend 2019
Pale merlot/ alicante bouchet/ cabernet sauvignon blend which shows little of Chile’s usual bright polished fruit character; light on fruit; short finish.
£ 19.50 for 3 litres ( equivalent to 4 x 75 cl bts: £ 4.87 per bt), Co- op
Germany: Karl May Pinot Noir 2018
Bright cherry aromas, soft smooth texture with vibrant acidity, good length; rare to find good German pinot noir at this price range. ■
£ 41 for 2.25 litres ( equivalent to 3 x 75 cl bts: £ 13.66 per bt), www.bibwine.co.uk
Join Rose’s Hidden Gems of Spain virtual tasting with L’art du Vin: 17 & 24 October, www.aduv.co.uk