Exciting new sherries are ideal for fireside sipping
This week we are celebrating the renaissance of one of the oldest wines in the world – sherry. International Sherry Week ( 2- 8 November, www. sherry. wine) is a bit different this year with thousands of sherry lovers across the world enjoying online Spanish cooking and sherry pairing classes, takeaway sherry and tapas pairings, sherry cocktails, virtual masterclasses and in- store discounts.
Sherry has transformed its image and quality in recent years with an exciting emergence of small traditional bodegas, now mainly Spanish- owned, offering dry unfiltered sherries straight from the cask – just as the Spanish like to drink it – known as ‘ En Rama’. For chilly autumn nights by the fireside, my favourite styles are rich, intense, nutty and textural – but still dry – Amontillado, Palo Cortado and Oloroso.
Callejuela Origin Manzanilla NV ( Star Buy)
Pale gold tinge, herby nutty aroma, lemon and distinct saline notes, briney earthy finish; good fullflavoured Manzanilla with sea- breeze freshness and piquancy.
£ 19.95-£ 20 for 75 cl bt, Woodwinters; Drinkmonger
Equipo Navazos Manzanilla ‘ I Think’ en Rama NV
Vibrant racy Manzanilla has aged for four and a half years under flor and winemaker Eduardo Ojeda’s personal selection from 60 casks. Typical tangy marine notes, minerally very dry with green olive and bitter almond finish.
£ 11.95 hf bt, Drinkmonger
Callejuela Origin NV
As dry as Amontillado should be. Light burnished gold with pale rime, aromas of marzipan, dried fig and seaweed mingle in this deliciously austere, dry, sappy, coastal Amontillado, vibrant acidity on the
palate with an astringent twist to the finish.
£ 29.95-£ 30 for 75 cl bt, Woodwinters; Drinkmonger
Tradicion Radicon Amontillado 30 Year Old
Tradicion is a relatively young boutique Jerez bodegas with an impressive reputation. This superb dry Amontillado is labelled 30 years, but the average age is pushing 45 years. Deliciously nutty, orange peel and cinnamon notes, complex meaty palate with layers and layers of flavours. Tradicion say it will last for a year once opened, if you can resist the temptation to finish it.
£ 52.97 for 75cl bt, Justerini & Brooks, www. justerinis. com
Faustino Gonzalez Cruz Vieja Oloroso NV En Rama
Very traditional, unusually still fermenting in American oak barrels, with all bottlings ‘ en rama’ straight from the casks. Brown gold, light soft caramel hints, light on flavour initially but moving into sappy succulence with walnut undertones and a good finish; very characterful dry Oloroso.
£ 27.95 hf bt, Woodwinters; Drinkmonger
Urium Vors Oloroso NV ( Star Buy)
Bodegas Urium are one of the best new cellars in Jerez – founded just 11 years ago. I normally rate their Palo Cortado highest in their range, but this is really a superb example of 30 year old Oloroso and worth every penny. Deep dark amber, hazelnut,
tobacco and dried fruits notes, tangy, nutty, elegant palate with intensity, balance and great length. Superb.
£ 51-£ 52.95 for 50 cl bt, Woodwinters; Drinkmonger; Luvians; Valhalla’s Goat; Good Spirits
Fernando de Castilla Antique Oloroso NV
From one of the best new sherry houses, revived in 1999 by Norwegian sherry- professional Jan Peterson, who worked at Osborne for 15 years. Unusually it does not carry an age statement ( not every bodega chooses to go through classification as it is costly), but is about 20 years. Very affordable great introduction to unfiltered, unblended, untreated, mature dry Oloroso. Amber hue, fruitcake notes, lovely firm structure and complexity for the price.
£ 29.75 for 50 cl bt, Woodwinters; Drinkmonger; Luvians; Waitrose
Faustino Gonzalez Cruz Vieja PX En Rama
From a single vineyard in Jerez Superior where the best vineyards are sited. This is an unusual handcrafted Pedro Ximenez; made from sun- dried grapes, slowly fermented, fortified, aged four years and bottled without filtration straight from the casks. Deep dark brown, orange rim, raisined nose, runny caramel flavours and texture with a raw earthy finish indicating its small production.
£ 31.95-£ 33 hf bt, Woodwinters; Drinkmonger
Join Rose’s forthcoming virtual ‘ Red Tuscan’ wine tasting, www. rosemurraybrown. com