I left my heart in Havana
Cuba is a thrilling destination where you can mix relaxed beach vibes with trips to its exciting and historic capital, writes Kate Wickers
Havana ooo na na! Drinking a mojito in Havana! Oh, this was the stuff of bucket lists for me. When we step out of the airport, there’s a line of pastelhued vintage classic cars waiting at the taxi rank with a huge billboard advertising rum as their backdrop.
All we need now is a puff on a cigar and to see a statue of Fidel Castro and our travels in Cuba will be off to a flying start. I’d dreamed of visiting Havana for years and it doesn’t disappoint. One of the world’s most alluring cities, it had been recently restored in time for its 500th anniversary, and it is looking gorgeous in the sunshine.
It’s the friendliness of the people that makes an impression first, as my sons aged 17, 16 and 13 receive regular high- fives while we stroll from the iconic art deco Bacardi Building ( the original headquarters of the famous rum producer) to the immense gleaming white El Capitolio ( Cuba’s seat of Government). Havana’s most beautiful theatre, Gran Teatro Alicia Alonso, is also looking resplendent, but it’s not the full story – stray a little off the tourist path and many of the 900 buildings of historic interest remain atmospherically dilapidated, with trees growing through the roofs of colonial mansions and washing strung on the balconies of once grand theatres. I get a crick in my neck from gazing up at all the Art Deco beauties, but it’s worth it for the cheery “Buenas” I receive ( the short version of good day), from an old lady who catches my eye, busy watching the world go by from her second floor balcony. In the Plaza de la Catedral, we stop for lunch at one of Havana’s oldest restaurants, Dona Eutimia – a family run restaurant serving the best ropa vieja – the quintessential Cuban meal of strips of beef braised with onions and sweet peppers. Here, it feels like the clocks stopped sometime in the 1940s.
For a whistle- stop tour of the city we rent one of Cuba’s famous classic American cars ( a blue Ford T- Bird) with driver, heading first along Havana’s seafront, the Malecon, past the iconic Hotel Nacional, which has hosted everyone from Cuban revolutionaries to Hollywood stars. Our destination is Fusterlandia to see the mosaic work of artist Jose Fuster, who transformed this once sleepy fishing community into a surreal artistic community, decorating not just his own flamboyant casa, but the pavements, walls and homes of his neighbours ( whether they liked it or not by the look of things). On our way back into the city, we call in at one of the largest cemeteries in the world – the Necropolis de Colon, built between 1871 and 1886, where over two million people are buried. Amongst the grand tombs and funerary art, Monumento a los Bomeros, a monument to 25 firefighters who lost their lives in service in 1890, is the most stirring. Even in this sombre setting, the strains of son cubana ( a blend of African and Spanish beats) can be heard, carried by the breeze from the radio of a passing car, reminding me of the Cuban people’s irrepressible love of life, something that a Communist regime may have tested but certainly not quashed.
Azucar is blazing a trail for a new breed of bars with a slick minimalist interior and bird’s eye view over the lovely Plaza Vieja. However, I prefer my mojito served with a slice of 1950s, so we head for Dos Hermanos on
It’s the friendliness of the people that makes an impression first
the harbourfront, unchanged since Hemingway used to stop by. Until recently, “Great country, terrible food” was the usual lament of visitors to Cuba, but oh how things are changing. Paladars were established in the 1990s, when Castro allowed private citizens to open restaurants in their homes. What started out as simple establishments – a few tables covered in bright tablecloths and a limited menu – have grown in sophistication. We head to sultry La Guarida ( featured in the Oscarnominated film Fresa y Chocolat and so cool that Madonna had a party here) to try the taste- teasing papaya lasagne. We book tickets to see the Buena Vista Social Club perform, featuring a few of the original band members ( now in their 80s but still able to shake their maracas with vigour), who belt out all the favourites, including their best known hit Chan Chan which has the whole club up dancing and singing, including my three sons.
Feeling culturally enriched, we travel two hours by private minibus to Iberostar Selection Varadero, located on the 12- mile- long Hicacos Peninsula on the island’s north coast. A wide sweep of the softest, whitest sand ( certainly worthy of its place in the top five best beaches in the world) slopes gently into water that sparkles like cut glass, the clearest I’ve ever seen. Beyond water- based activities and a hike through Varadero’s nature reserve, a holiday here is all about kicking back.
The décor of our spacious suite is in Caribbean hues – sunshine yellows and sky blues – that put us instantly in beach mode. The bottle of complimentary rum helps too. If you can get over the wrist band that you’re required to wear ( and I did) there are many benefits to going allinclusive. Mojitos on tap is just one. Leaving your wallet in the safe is another and gone were the constant, “Can I have?” questions from by sons, leaving me free to read my book in peace. For dinner there’s choice, from Japanese to the all- encompassing “International”, but it’s the Cuban restaurant, Ambrosio, that’s our favourite. Entertainment wise, expect feathers, sequins, and hats decorated with fruit at the Copacabana- style nightly show, but if that’s not your scene there’s a cigar lounge ( when in Rome…), a small night club, and a sky filled with stars to gaze into.
We soon find our routine – sunloungers on the beach in the morning, near enough to the water sports centre so that we can make good use of the complimentary paddle boards, kayaks and pedalos. The water is wonderfully shallow for quite some distance and life jackets are de rigueur, so I never worry about my three sons venturing out to sea alone, working up an appetite for the lunch- time beach- side barbecue. In the afternoon we lounge near the vast pool, with its swim up bar. On an early evening walk, the sky is a canvas splashed with flamingo pink and tangerine orange. Varadero certainly knows how to throw a spectacular sunset, the perfect backdrop to an island full of joy.
In January, Virgin Atlantic ( www.virginatlantic.com) will resume direct flflights twice weekly from Heathrow to Havana. Return fares from £ 479. Double rooms at Hotel Florida ( www.hotelfloridahabana.com) in old Havana start at $ 62USD.
First Choice ( firstchoice. co. uk) offers seven nights at Iberostar Varadero on an all- inclusive board basis, including flflights and transfers from £ 887pp, based on two adults sharing.