Lost in town and gown
The University Arms is a spectacular base for a short break to Cambridge, writes Neil Geraghty
Is it really blue or could it be green? Cambridge blue, the muted mint colour of Cambridge University’s sports teams has academics and tourists alike locking horns in fierce debate. From book bindings to biscuit tins, the colour is ubiquitous in Cambridge and for hotel decor, its fresh, subtle tones are a designer’s dream.
I’ve just arrived in Cambridge for a luxury midweek break and my first glimpse of Cambridge blue is on the elegant lamp posts and railings that run along the facade of Cambridge’s oldest hotel, the University Arms. The hotel was commissioned in 1830 by Jesus College and was constructed around an earlier coaching inn to provide a more upmarket residence for visiting dignitaries. With its soaring arched windows and green copper cupolas, the grand Georgian architecture certainly resembles a stately home from home, but this was not always the case. An ugly 1960s extension saw a decline in its fortunes and much to the dismay of the city, the landmark hotel closed down in 2014. However, the worldwide interest in reinventing historic hotels quickly caught up with the University Arms and following an £ 80 million investment, the hotel reopened its doors in 2018.
Key to its transformation was the neo classicist architect John Simpson, who tore down the 1960s eyesore and replaced it with an elegant Georgian- style extension with an imposing carriage porch of fluted Doric columns. As you walk from the railway station to the centre, the porch is an eye- catching landmark and serves as a gateway to the architectural splendours of Cambridge’s historic core. Inside, the hotel has been transformed by interior designer Martin Brudnizki of Soho House Hotels fame who has swept away the fusty decor and replaced it with a light- hearted homage to Edwardian country house living and Cambridge academic life. Throughout the hotel there are sprinklings of Cambridge blue, most notably in the new Covid 19 signage where characters from Cambridge graduate AA Milne’s children’s books politely ask guests to socially distance and wear masks in public areas.
The suites named after famous Cambridge alumni are the most popular rooms and mine is the Tennyson, which has a suitably poetic choice of books to peruse on a delightful student- style desk and also has a sunny south- facing balcony overlooking Parker's Piece, an historic playing field where
Cambridge students first devised the modern rules of football which were adopted by the FA in 1863. I head downstairs to the concierge to book one of the hotel's complimentary bicycles. These Dutch- style bikes with back pedal brakes are painted a vibrant shade of Cambridge blue and cut quite a dash on Cambridge’s streets.
With traffic strictly limited in the city centre, cycling in Cambridge is a delightfully relaxing activity and I take a meandering route through the University Backs stopping occasionally to admire the world famous views of ancient colleges set amidst the parkland's fiery autumn foliage. With the colleges currently closed to visitors, now is the perfect time to enjoy Cambridge’s excellent art collections. Foremost amongst these is Kettle’s Yard, a row of workers’ cottages knocked into one that was the home of Jim Ede who in the 1930s was a curator of the British National Gallery of Art, a precursor to the Tate Gallery. He became good friends with many of the 20th century's greatest artists and sculptors and in the post war years filled his open plan Cambridge home
with their works, carefully arranging them to provide harmonious perspectives of shape and colour.
Back at the University Arms I head down to the ground floor restaurant, Parker's Tavern. The head chef, Tristan Welch, has created a menu of locally sourced comfort food that would have gone down a treat in the 1920s university refectories. I opt for slow roasted Norfolk duck that falls off the bone into a delicious viscous honey and thyme sauce. For pudding, the rice pudding souffle is a wonderful combination of fluffiness and chewiness brought together with a layer of strawberry jam straight out of school dinner heaven. After the satisfying dinner there’s only one place I want to be – in the Hypnos bed and at the lifts I take another look at the Cambridge blue on the Toad of Toad Hall Covid sign. It’s technically a shade of spring green but I wouldn’t fancy telling that to the Cambridge University rugby squad.
Cycling in Cambridge is a delightfully relaxing activity
The University Arms is temporarily closed due to Covid restrictions but hopes to reopen early next month. It has a ' Make the Most of Midweek' offer that starts from £ 239 on a B& B basis and includes a £ 40 per person credit to be used at Parker’s Tavern, www. universityarms. com