Rutherglen’s liquid gold hits the sweet spot
The heady scents of Christmas pudding might seem an unlikely component to look for in winemaking, but that is what winemakers in Rutherglen watch for in the fermenting vat.
“As soon as our muscat starts to smell like plum pudding, we know fermentation has started,” says winemaker Stephen Chambers of Chambers Rosewood Vineyards, the region’s most historic winery founded in 1858.
Rutherglen muscat is one of the most historic and unique fortified wines in the world. This hedonistic dark gold sweet ‘ n sticky, a fabulous pick- me- up for wintry lockdown nights, is known as Australia’s liquid gold. It comes from vineyards on the original Victorian goldfields, 200 miles north- east of Melbourne.
Many Rutherglen wineries are still family- owned. In 1857 Scot John Campbell travelled from St Andrews on the Merchant Prince, arrived in the goldfields in 1860, bought 79 acres and started making wine a decade later, on a hunch that wine might make him richer than gold. Today Campbell Wines is run by the 5th generation of his family.
The key to making this liquid gold is the brown muscat ( muscat a petits grains rouge) grape. The fortified muscat here is different from France’s lighter pale gold vin doux naturels. With Australia’s old muscat vines ( some 100 years old), warm climate and unique winemaking methods, the result is a more intense richer liquid, with Rutherglen vying for the title of muscat capital of the world.
“We wait until grapes have just started to dimple, rather than raisin,” says Jen Pfeiffer, winemaker at Pfeiffer Wines. “It is this ‘ dimpling’ which is the magic of Rutherglen muscat as dimpled berries have all the sugar and flavour.
“We have a short window of opportunity to extract flavours from dimpled muscat grapes on its skins,” explains Pfeiffer. “We watch the fermentation like a hawk, we don’t want to ferment for too long, just 3- 5 days, as we want to retain sweetness.”
The real key to Australia’s liquid gold is in blending, a skill passed down from generation to generation.
Evaporation is important as the wine concentrates with increased viscosity, with casks losing 2- 10 per cent, making the production of this liquid gold a costly enterprise, hence the price of the top wines.
The lighter ‘ Rutherglen’ style smells floral, fresh and like orange marmalade; ‘ Classic’ has richer toffee and liquorice aromas while ‘ Grand’ has roast notes, chocolate and molasses and the decadent ‘ Rare’ smells of Christmas spice, coffee beans and balsamic.
Rutherglen muscat can be sipped on its own, but is versatile with food: spicy curry, mince pies, spicy apple pie, custard tarts, crème brûlée, chocolate pannacotta, figs, nuts, Stilton or Lanark Blue cheese for a sweet- salty combo or poured over vanilla icecream.
In the 1980s Rutherglen’s historic gem was in danger of extinction, now it has swung back in fashion with a modern take: offering smaller bottles under screwcap and promoting its use in cocktails such as Muscat espresso martini.
Campbell’s Rutherglen Muscat STAR VALUE
Uplifted fruity notes typical of Campbell’s house style; sun- drenched raisins, caramel notes, marmalade, black toffee sweetness, clean dry finish ( 220g/ l residual sugar).
£ 12.99 hf bt, Waitrose
Chambers Old Vine Classic Rutherglen Muscat
Deep dark Classic in a drier style from later fermentation; aromatic orange peel, toffee and liquorice notes, glycerol richness, zingy intensity, long finish ( 269g/ l).
£ 21.99 hf bt, Liberty Wines; www. winesearcher. com
Stanton & Killeen Classic Rutherglen Muscat
At average 12 years, this older Classic style has rose petal notes, treacley, luscious, decadent sweetness; deep, long raisiny finish; well- priced Classic ( 282g/ l).
£ 17 hf bt, The Wine Society
Pfeiffer Grand Rutherglen Muscat
STAR BUY
The olive green hue indicates age. This has rich intense aromas with dark chocolate and toffee notes, the palate has a vibrant freshness and nutty richness. Beautifully balanced Grand based on 1986 vintage; clear favourite ( 297g/ l).
£ 50 hf bt, House of Townend
Morris Old Premium Rare Rutherglen Muscat
Morris are known for robustly strong sweeties; dense, treacly, hedonistic, unctuously sweet, as rich as you can get, like a liquid Christmas pudding – a dessert in itself ( 312g/ l).
£ 99 hf bt, Fine & Rare Wines
Join Rose’s Burgundy & Bordeaux virtual tastings with Corney & Barrow, 5 & 12 February, www. rosemurraybrown. com