A gateway to antiquity
Germany's oldest city is steeped in history and echoes of the past, says Neil Geraghty
It’s Trier’s first climate protest since the pandemic started and a group of 100 or so demonstrators, all socially distanced and wearing masks, are standing in front of a stage in the city’s sleepy cathedral square. The cathedral is the oldest in Germany and I’m just admiring some ancient Roman brickwork when an almighty boom sends a flock of pigeons circling around one of the towers in panic.
The source of the din is a heavy metal singer who launches into a no holds barred protest anthem, so deafening that a policeman and several demonstrators cover their ears. This was hardly the relaxed sightseeing experience I was expecting and I scurry into the cathedral for sanctuary where surprisingly the only noticeable sound is the pleasant tinkling of a church organ. I'm mightily impressed by the Romans' building skills.
The three metre thick walls were built to last and the Romans certainly knew a thing or two about sound proofing. Trier, it can be truthfully said, has a superiority complex over other German cities. At more than 2000 years old it is Germany's oldest city and during the 3rd century was elevated to capital of the Western Roman Empire. It enjoyed a second golden age in the Middle Ages and echoes of its past glories can be seen throughout the city. Added to that, Trier has an enchanting location on the Moselle River where hillside vineyards produce some of the finest wines in Germany. Watching the locals enjoy flutes of chilled riesling in the city's many atmospheric weinstube ( wine taverns), you can forgive them a certain smugness at living in such a beautiful, historic city. For rail enthusiasts one of the best routes to travel to Trier is from Frankfurt via Koblenz. The first leg of the journey passes through the 65km long Rhine Gorge, the most scenic stretch of the Rhine, where fairytale castles built upon craggy hilltops stand guard over medieval towns filled with half timbered houses. Much of it is whimsical 19th century romanticism but it is a visual treat to look at.
Trier's pride and joy is the Porta Nigra, the most famous Roman landmark in Germany and best preserved example of a Roman Gate north of the Alps. Its remarkable state of preservation is due to it being converted into a church in the 11th century. When the antiquities- loving Napoleon occupied Trier in 1802 he dismantled the church and the gate once again resumed its original
function as an entrance to the city. Inside the lofty arches I’m intrigued by the Roman letters MAC carved into a couple of the sandstone blocks.
Thoughts of ancient Pictish mercenaries carving their nicknames into the stone are soon dismissed when I learn that the letters were merely a Roman batch mark from a nearby quarry.
Through the gate and down a side street I spot a towering statue of a bearded man. It seems an odd location for such an imposing statue and when I walk over all is revealed. It’s Trier's most famous son, Karl Marx, and was a gift to the city from China to mark the 200th anniversary of his birth in 2018. The Marx family home is now an interesting museum devoted to his life and in recent years well heeled, conservative Trier has become an unlikely pilgrimage destination for hundreds of members of the Chinese Communist party. Another famous resident of Trier was the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great who spent the early part of his reign here subduing rebellious German tribes and embellishing the city with magnificent landmarks.
The most prominent of these is the
Clockwise from main: Trier’s Porta Nigra; the old town; the sculpture of Karl Marx, a gift from China
imperial throne room which is the largest surviving free standing hall from antiquity. Once decorated with marble and glittering mosaics, the hall is now an austere plain brick Protestant church, but the sense of scale and history that the hall still exudes is unrivalled.
A five minute stroll through the beautiful baroque gardens of the Bishop's Palace brings you to the imposing ruins of the Imperial Baths.
They were destined to become one of largest bath complexes in the Roman Empire, but were never finished and served as a military barracks instead. During archaeological excavations, however, an earlier Roman villa was found, complete with its own bath house which you can view from one of the subterranean tunnels. It's a fascinating glimpse into antiquity and I could well imagine the owner enjoying a glass or two of fine local wine as he relaxed in the bath after a hard day's work at the Forum.
You can forgive a certain smugness at living in such a beautiful, historic city
Please check Covid- 19 regulations before booking. Lufthansa flies directly from Edinburgh to Frankfurt from £ 105 round trip, www. lufthansa. com; for more about Trier and travel to Germany go to www. germany. travel and www. trier- info. de