Port of pleasure
Moraira morphed from fishing village to holiday resort but retains its character, and is as popular with Spaniards as foreigners, says Kate Wickers
Relax in the popular Spanish resort of Moraira
There’s a salsa band playing by the ruins of Moraira’s 18th century castle; and children twirl on the esplanade, caught up in the fun of it all. The smell of fresh paella wafts from a nearby restaurant; and locals stroll in three generation family groups bound for a late dinner, where happy chatter and wine will flow until past midnight in true Spanish style.
Last July, I made it back to one of my favourite family holiday spots in Europe – the Costa Blanca resort of Moraira, situated equidistant between Alicante to the south and Valencia to the north. It’s a place I’ve been coming to for more than 30 years, ever since my boyfriend’s (now husband’s) parents bought a villa here. Although Moraira has morphed from fishing village to holiday resort, it escaped the rampant building boom of the 1960s and retains its character, as popular with Spaniards as foreigners.
During festivals, such as the annual Moors and Christians fiesta in June, the town comes alive with parades, live music and fireworks, and you’re likely to be invited to a local party or two (despite the number of tourists that visit, Moraira remains a wonderfully hospitable town). At other times the atmosphere is lively, but never raucous, a far cry from Benidorm, just 36 kilometres to the south, although if you’re looking for family fun in the shape of theme and water parks, this all-singing, alldancing mega-resort has plenty.
My favourite spot is El Portet, a tiny (two-shop, one hotel and three restaurant) village just a kilometre from the main town. In Restaurante El Portet I wait for my lunch of boquerones (marinated anchovies) to arrive and look out across the Mediterranean Sea to Penon de Ifach – an immense limestone rock thought to resemble the head of a sleeping giant – and I’m so grateful to be here. “Hola! Welcome back,” booms the owner, his eyes crinkling into what I know is a huge smile beneath his face mask. You’re always treated like an old friend, but when the return of UK holidaymakers is so vital to Spanish tourism, I feel that this year it is even more heartfelt.
Of Moraira’s beaches, L’ampolla, located back in the main town is the largest with ample amusements (volleyball nets, a playground and water sports), but the scallop shell-shaped cove of El Portet is the prettiest. On such a sliver of sand, which dips gently into clear water that remains shallow for a long way out, I did wonder if social distancing might be a problem, but friendly beach guards keep things in order. You’re required by Spanish law to keep face masks on while walking around, but once settled on the beach, we rip them off and race into the sea. Without them, it feels as free as skinny-dipping.
Back in Moraira, we head to the roof terrace of Captain Andy’s for a sundowner and views over the swanky new marina, built in 2006, where yachts bob and the well-heeled sip cava from the terrace of Club Nautica, before browsing the town’s many boutiques. My favourite is Cardamom for well-priced clothing (summer dresses, and now face masks too, in pretty floral prints) and ethnic jewellery from Southern Spain; while my teenage sons stock up on inflatables and beer pong sets from fun Spanish chain, Ale Hop.
We stay in a traditional Spanish
We watch as the world goes by on what the Spanish call their paseo
villa, El Molinete, which has been stylishly renovated with a modern interior, booked through Homeaway. There’s a large pool, spacious gardens and an outside games area to keep my three sons occupied. After months of cooking at home, we opt to dine out most evenings. Waiting staff are required to wear either visors or masks, and hygiene is clearly a priority, but even so I make sure to book an outside table. In town, stalwarts include Restaurante del Mar for fish, caught locally and auctioned early morning at the port’s market; and El Lloc de Poble for classic tapas such as tortilla, calamari and grilled sardines. Head along the Calpe Road to the cluster of bars and restaurants overlooking rocky Andrago beach (where locals come to sunbathe on the rocks and snorkel) and you’ll find a more contemporary scene. Our teenage sons are impressed with cool Bar La cabana, with its resident DJ, extensive cocktail list and modern twist on tapas, such as Vietnamese pork fajitas.
It’s a struggle to peel my three sons away from the pool, which we’ve furnished with a volleyball net and inflatables, but the chance for a day at sea does the trick and we rent a selfdrive boat from the marina, motoring out along the coast towards the town of Calpe for fabulous close up views of the massive limestone cliffs of Penon de Ifach. On craggy ledges, we catch sight of sea birds such gulls and cormorants returning to nests to feed their young. Up above peregrine falcons glide on warm thermals. If you’re lucky, you may even spot a bottlenose dolphin.
For a complete change of scene, we head 22 kilometres inland to rural Jalon Valley, famous for its groves of orange, lemon and almond trees, flanked by the Sierra Bernia mountains with the Gorgos river running through. Several bodegas are open for tastings of the local sweet mistella wine with its creamy butterscotch flavour; there’s orange blossom honey and baskets woven from river reeds to buy at roadside stalls. Gata de Gorgos is perhaps the most scenic of the small villages with an ornate church dating from 1535, and with a view of its bell tower we stop at a simple restaurant and order a smoky-tasting paella.
Life feels sleepy here, a little lost in time. The weekly outdoor Friday market is one of the Costa Blanca’s largest, and sprawls across Moraira’s main car park at the back of the town, selling everything from Mediterranean plants, olives and cheeses to hammocks, espadrilles and leather bags. While my family sleeps, I like to wander early, picking up treats to take back for breakfast such as slices of cured local ham, pan rustico (a spongy bread with a crisp outer crust) and fire-red juicy tomatoes the size of tennis balls.
On our final evening, we sit in the main square with views to the port. We have a jug of chilled sangria before us and a dinner of paella to look forward to, and we watch as the world goes by on what the Spanish call their paseo – leisurely early evening stroll. Life feels almost carefree again. “Hasta luego! (see you later!)” we shout to the waiter as we leave, echoing the wistful call from every local restaurateur and shop owner, who are counting, like me, the days until us Brits can return.
Easyjet has flights to Alicante from Edinburgh and Glasgow. Returns from Glasgow in May start at around £82.99, www.easyjet.com For villa rentals go to www. homeaway.co.uk