Spring beauty: classic make-up with a twist
The eyes and lips have it with timeless techniques, leading make-up artists tell
Often, backstage beauty at the four major fashion weeks is all about pushing boundaries and letting make-up artists’ creative juices flow. But at the spring 2021 shows, the overall mood was more subdued.
“I believe there’s a return to classic looks on the runway right now, that is translating to the streets because we tend to gravitate to what’s familiar during a time of crisis,” says make-up artist Kimberly Crawford.
“History repeats itself,” says makeup artist Jon Gregory. “Marilyn Monroe, with her iconic red lip, beauty mark, and jet black liner. It’s a look that worked for her, so why would it not work for someone else? If it’s not broke, don’t fix it.”
Black eyes
As seen at Chanel, Dior, Chloe, Valentino and many more, sharp feline flicks and smoky black shadow looks dominated at the SS21 shows.
“The focus is on the eyes more than ever, with modern shapes to a wing or smoky eye,” says Crawford. “I’m seeing people making more graphic or even rounder shapes with the liner, and pairing it with cuts in the brows or fluffy brows.”
Chanel Les 4 Ombres Multi Effect Quadra Eyeshadow in Blurry Grey, £47
Red lips
From slashes of scarlet at Balmain and Hermes to darker hues at Rodarte and Roksanda, there was a glut of matte red lippie looks.
“The beauty industry is always changing, and today’s beauty world is all about inclusion,” says Gregory. “Marilyn may be known for the classic red lip, but that look can be created on any and every skin tone.
“To amp up a classic red lip, I line the lips with a deeper cool-toned red. Then in the centre, I reach for an orange/red shade. Blend them together and you have a perfect red lip with dimension.”
Nars Audacious Lipstick in Bette, £26; MAC Powder Kiss Lipstick in Devoted to Chili, £19
Hot pink lips
The Tom Ford show always offers a fabulous beauty look and this season, it centred around glossy fuchsia lips, a shade also seen at Versace and Bora Aksu.
“The nude matte lip is finally giving way to a red or pink lip, because women, when they are in a situation where they can remove their face masks, want a bold lip,” says Crawford.
What makes the look modern this season? “The edges are softer and not so sharp,” she continues. “And it’s paired with glowing skin with minimal coverage and concealer where needed.”