Great Bordeaux finds are off the beaten track
If you look beyond the big names in Bordeaux you will find a wealth of artisanal producers making wines with charm and character in neglected corners of this famous region on offer at decent prices. “Think what you can buy from Burgundy these days under £30 – it’s slim pickings – yet Bordeaux offers the consumer so much: drinkability, ageability, volume and a flavour profile that appeals to the British palate,” says Tom Jenkins, Bordeaux buyer at Justerini & Brooks who has been unearthing and championing new young talent in the region.
Bordeaux: Chateau Lary Tagot 2018
STAR VALUE
Extraordinarily good value. Delightful cedary aromas, soft velvety mouthfeel, sweet plums, blackcurrant flavours with just enough dryness on the tannins to remind you that you are in Bordeaux. Only downside is its synthetic cork. £8.50, The Wine Society
Fronsac: Chateau Grand Village 2016
A lowly appellation of Bordeaux Superieur – but don’t be put off by this. Fabulous example of an entry level wine offering so much for the price. Beautiful cedarwood nose, rich cranberry and cassis notes, bright acidity with grainy chalky tannins. £19.68, Justerinis
St Estephe: Chateau Capbern 2014
St Estephe is a well-known commune, but there are hidden gems to be found amongst the lesser names. St Estephe is usually renowned for deep compact austere cabernet sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux, but this is remarkably attractive and approachable.
£20, Justerinis
Castillon: La Source de Goubau 2015
Perched on one of Bordeaux highest points at a modest 100m altitude on St Philippe d’aiguilhe plateau, this 10 hectare estate makes intense silky characterful wines with well-defined rich fruit, spicy notes, fresh plummy and fine tannins. A Castillon property to watch.
£18.99, Raeburn Wines
Medoc: Chateau Greysac 2015 STAR BUY
The 95-acre Greysac estate was owned by the Agnelli Fiat family until 2012, when Jean Guyot (of Rolland de By fame) took over this excellent estate. A popular wine at the tasting – this is a great introductory claret which would convince anyone of Bordeaux charms. Lovely cedary nose.
£17.68, Justerinis
Francs: Chateau Clos Fontaine 2015
Brothers Jan and Florian Thienpont – fourth generation at this recently renovated Cotes de Bordeaux estate – use lightly toasted large-sized (500 litre) oak barrels for maturation, rather than classic smaller 225 litre Bordelais barrels. This has bright plummy fruits, fruitcake sweetness, slightly spicy with soft smooth tannins.
£15.99, Raeburn Wines
Moulis-en-medoc: Chateau Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 2015 STAR BUY
Serious claret from a stellar ripe vintage at a remarkable price. The Wine Society have been working with this chateau for over 40 years – and it is top notch Moulis in this vintage.
Predominantly cabernet sauvignon with merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc; the overall mouthfeel is mellow and silky.
£20, The Wine Society
Castillon: L’aurage 2014
Ambitious modern style claret from Louis Mitjaville. Robust, packed with black cherry fruits, liquorice and herby hints, so dense and concentrated with a slightly smoky finish – from a mid-weight traditional style vintage.
£32.95, Corney & Barrow
Bordeaux: Acte 9 2017
This is another Bordeaux Superieur with a difference from the Guinaudeau family, who also own legendary Chateau Lafleur in Pomerol. This 100 per cent merlot from the tricky frost-prone vintage is not dissimilar to a limestone-based St Emilion in style with bright forward fruits.
£29, Justerinis
Pomerol: J&B Pomerol NV STAR BUY
Highly classified blend from two leading estates on Pomerol’s plateau. Superb smart claret with beautiful perfumed fruits, sweet plummy flavours, hints of caramel and cassis liqueur, lush ripeness, balancing acidity and moderate alcohol for Pomerol.
£24.67, Justerinis
Join Rose’s Portugal v Spain wine tastings on Fridays 14 and 21 May in association with Corney & Barrow, www.rosemurraybrown.com