A shepherd’s Life for me
Want your next break to feature firepits and fresh air? Try a shepherd’s hut, says Abi Jackson
Sheep can graze for about six to eight hours a day, according to Google. And it turns out, I can happily spend a good 60 minutes or so watching them; there’s something quite hypnotic in that steady rhythm of rip, munch, chew.
I’ve just spent the night in a shepherds’ hut on Romney Marsh – a 100-square-mile stretch of marsh and farmland declared an ‘Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’, tucked between the Kent Downs and the Sussex border. Alarm set for sunrise, I’d planned to head out for an early bike ride, but opening my blinds to a heavy fog, it’s a slow morning instead.
“The marsh mist,” Kristina Boulden, who runs Romney Marsh Shepherds Huts with her husband Paul, says knowingly when we chat later. Much of this pancake-flat region sits below sea level, and apparently the dense morning mists frequently roll in. By the time my coffee’s brewed and jam’s slopped generously on my toast, my neighbour, a chunky-fleeced Romney ewe, has emerged from the cloud. We breakfast together, me mug-in-hand on my hut steps, her snout-to-ground a few yards away.
Besides, you can’t staycation in a shepherds’ hut and not spend a chunk of time cranking down a gear. That’s exactly what Kristina and Paul had in mind with Rumwold and Lookerer, the two traditionally designed huts that make up Romney Marsh Shepherds Huts.
They’re fully kitted out with hot water and electric: there’s a small kitchen area with a hob, sink and fridge, bathroom, and super-comfy double bed. There’s also a log burner, plus a firepit outside. It’s just the right balance of away-from-it-all rustic charm and comfort. Little touches, like the sheep’s lanolin toiletries and blankets, come from Romney Marsh Wools, which Kristina set up in 2008.
Paul’s family has been farming in the area since 1882 (they currently have around 1000 Romneys and Merinos, as well as crops and a small cattle herd). Kristina married into it, and soon developed a passion for reviving British wool. It’s a by-product, she tells me, that often goes to waste – but with the growing focus on sustainability and shopping local, she’s hoping this will change, and works with UK weavers and local craftspeople to create their range of clothing, accessories, knitting yarns and blankets, available from their on-site shop and online.
The shepherds’ huts came a decade later in 2018, offering visitors the chance to retreat from the hustle and
bustle and soak up the peace of the marsh. I’m here just as pandemic restrictions have lifted enough to allow self-catering travel.
Extra measures have been introduced to meet Covid-safe requirements, such as additional cleaning steps and later check-ins, and once you’ve booked, you’ll be sent a link to their handy app, which contains everything you’ll need to know about getting to and accessing the hut, what to bring, what’s included and things to do in the area.
Making yourself at home here is instant and easy; I brew some tea and soon drift into full-blown relax mode. Having your own hut is a bit like childhood daydream come true, especially if, like me, you love a mini solo adventure (although it’d make a sweet romantic getaway too). Best of all, you don’t need to be an expert map-reader to explore Romney Marshes alone. The aforementioned app has lots of info, plus there’s 4G for Googlemaps and it’s all pretty well signposted.
About a 15-minute walk from the huts is a footpath along the Royal Military Canal, which runs for 28 miles from Seabrook to Cliff End
Romney Marsh Shepherds Huts, main; Abi making friends with a lamb, top; one of the traditional huts, above
near Hastings, built in the early1800s during the Napoleonic wars. You could, if you wanted, walk the whole thing; I head off for an earlyevening stroll to work up an appetite. A number of nearby village pubs might be options for dinner (check ahead that they’re open and whether booking’s required) and there’s a small foldaway dining table in the hut if you’re cooking on the hob or firepit.
The next morning, the mist fades eventually, revealing brilliant blue skies. Romney Marsh has about 20 miles of coastline and nearly all of it’s protected by the sea wall, which is perfectly sized for pedestrians and cyclists to share. From here, I cycle all the way to Dungeness, the southernmost point in Kent.
After a snack on the shore and hot chocolate pitstop, it’s back on the bike to retrace my route. After 40-odd miles or so, I’m back in time to help Kristina feed the lambs – then I’ve grand plans to light up the firepit, roast marshmallows, and finish off the wine as the sun goes down.
My neighbour, a chunkyfleeced Romney ewe, has emerged from the cloud
A two-night stay in Rumwold Hut for two adults sharing from £166pp, based on travel between July 1 – September 22, 2021. Visit bloomstays. com or call 01227 903404.