Grape adventures
The new wines you should try
We normally think of Marks & Spencer as a safe dependable brand for classics – and this certainly applies to its own label wine range. Now M&S winebuyers Sue Daniels and Belinda Kleinig believe it is time for M&S customers to step outside their comfort zone. Together with a group of winemakers across the world, they have collated the Found selection of unusual grapes within the £7-£10 to keep them accessible – and all are vegan-friendly.
WHITE
Greece: Moschofilero & Roditis 2020 Semeli
STAR BUY
This is a cracking buy for the price, made by the ‘Master of Moschofilero’, Leonidas Nassiakos of Semeli winery in central Peloponnese. To achieve freshness and zip, Nassiakos has blended in roditis grown high up on Aigialia mountain slopes to add minerally notes. I loved its sherbet and spice aromas, juicy limey fruits, honeyed with a salty edge; serve with rich textured seafood, fish stew or a buttery herby fish dish.
£8.50, M&S
France: Gros Manseng 2020 Nicolas Duffour
Anyone who has explored the wines of Gascony or Jurançon in the French Pyrenees will know the Manseng grapes: petit and gros – used to produce thrilling dry and sweet wines. This is made from high yielding gros – starts off rather closed, but citric and pineapple zesty fruit livens the mid-palate, finishing refreshingly bitter; not the best value in the range.
£9, M&S
Romania: Feteasca Regala 2020 Cramele Recas
Feteasca regala is by far Romania’s most popular grape. This lively aromatic example is made by an Australian and Spanish winemaking team at Romania’s largest independent winery (Cramele Recas). Loved its exotic quince, white flower, lime notes, slightly spicy with lively dry palate and moderate alcohol. Serve with local ‘Bulz’, feta and ham polenta dish.
£7, M&S
Italy: Ribolla Gialla 2020 Domus Vini
GOOD VALUE
A hidden gem from Venezia Giulia in northeast Italy made by winemaker Giacomo Vedovato. Ribolla gialla grape dates back to the 13th century, but is so little known today. Subtle nose, but explosively juicy zesty palate with orange zest, herbs, nuts and crisp dry finish. Easy to drink on its own, it is a perfect hammock wine or serve as a light lunch wine with seafood salad.
£7, M&S
ROSÉ
Portugal: Vinho Verde Rosé 2020 Quinta das Arcas
Certainly a twist on a classic, but not to my taste. Smells of boiled sweets, austere spritzy palate, bitter finish – an unusual rosé blend of two Portuguese red grapes touriga naçional and espadeiro.
£7, M&S
RED
Greece: Xinomavro & Mandilaria 2019 Thymiopoulos
STAR BUY
Outstanding example of an accessible version of xinomavro at under £10. Don’t be put off by its pale tones, it has fragrant raspberry bouquet, fabulous rich layers of blackfruits, slightly herby undertones and lingering finish. The blend is softened with 30 per cent mandilaria grown on volcanic Santorini to add uplifted big bold fruits. Served with Stifado, slow cooked beef stew.
£9.50, M&S
Italy: Nerello Cappucio 2019 Settesoli
The first nerello cappucio single varietal wine available in the UK. This rare Sicilian grape is usually lost in big blends with other Nerellos, but Dominio de Gregorio of the Settesoli winery has created a rather interesting wine. Leathery, spicy, earthy with savoury palate, with underlying juicy red fruits dry tannins with that typical twist to the finish. Good value for those who like Italian bargains.
£7, M&S
Chile: Pais 2019 Indomita
This is a great introduction to Chile’s oldest grape which fell out of favour for so many years. Bursting with blackcherries on the nose with a juicy fruit, soft smooth palate – it would suit merlot lovers with its bright plummy fruits. My second favourite red – ideal served with Lentejas sausage stew, Charquican slow cooked beef or just a weekday pizza.
£9, M&S
Join Rose’s Meet the Rhone Winemaker Bastien Tardieu of Tardieu-laurent virtual tasting in association with Raeburn Wines on Friday 28 May, www. rosemurraybrown.com