Pioneering women growing their own way
Four women in four different European countries, who own their wineries and make their own wine tell me about their lives.
Charlotte Horton, Castello Di Potentino
One of the most inspirational winemakers in Tuscany, Horton is focusing on what she calls ‘real wine’ – made as naturally as possible from unusual grape varieties for her region with a nod to Etruscan winemaking. With her mother and brother in 2000 Horton bought a crumbling castle and tiny four hectare vineyard nestled below Tuscany’s highest peak, Mount Amiata, painstakingly restoring it to its former glory.
When I visited Potentino nine years ago, they were mid-project. Horton had unearthed several Etruscan winemaking artefacts in the vineyards, volcanic stone vats which she uses for winemaking. “Etruscans planted vines and olive trees here 1,500 years ago; I am only a continuum here, doing it in a modern way,” says Horton.
To date Potentino’s best wine is its 100 per cent Pinot Noir Piropo 2015 matured in 1700 litre French Alliers oak: bright vivid pinot with enchanting lingonberry scents, soft sensuous texture, smoky undertones, elegant (£26, woodwinters.com).
Lidewij van Wilgen, Terr Des Dames
One of the leading ladies of the Languedoc, van Wilgen is unusual in that she did not come from a winemaking background. Brought up in the Netherlands, she switched careers from marketing in 2002 – training to become a winemaker in southern France and buying an 18th century cellar and vineyard in Murveil-les-beziers near St Chinian. She has restored her 14 hectare vineyard’s old vines, renovated the cellar and rebuilt the house – whilst raising her three daughters who now work with her.
Van Wilgen focuses on organic viticulture. “It was so easy to convert, but only eight per cent of winegrowers in this region are organic,” she says. Her most approachable red is grenache/syrah blend, La Dame (£14), but her best wines are whites from grenache blanc, Le Blanc 2019 (£17, woodwinters.com) is fresh, concentrated fruit, dense long finish with superb texture.
Sandra Tavares Da Silva, Wine & Soul
Tavares divides her time between her Douro project Wine & Soul which she set up with husband Jorge Serodio Borges in 2001 – and her parents’ estate Quinta de Chocapalha near Lisbon. Having trained in winemaking in Italy, Tavares gained valuable handson experience at Quinta Vale Dona Maria under Cristiano van Zeller in Douro’s Rio Torto. When she set up Wine & Soul, the goal was to invest and protect very old vineyards (50-125 yr old) which were being torn out in the late 1990s and make wines which reflect the Douro’s old vines.
At Quinta de Chocapalha, an hour north of Lisbon, Tavares is helping revitalise Lisboa region’s reputation with one of the leading small estates. With its foggy microclimate, diurnal temperatures and sheltered position beneath Serra Montejuno, Chocapalha produces fresh vibrant ageable whites and reds – again using traditional methods from similar grapes found in the Douro. Qunita de Chocapalha Tinto 2016 (£14.25, corneyandbarrow.com) is a great reflection of this microclimate with floral bouquet, spicy under tones with freshness and good acidity.
Judith Beck, Weingut Judith Beck
Judith Beck is one of the pioneers of the biodynamic movement in Neusiedlersee in Burgenland, Austria’s new red wine powerhouse. She began conversion to biodynamic in 2005 and was one of the initial members of the RESPEKT-BIODYN biodynamic growers association.
Her grandparents had a mixed farm, but her parents focused on vine growing at a time when chemicals were widely used. “We nearly lost everything in just one generation; but we could see that something had to be done to revitalise soils,” says Beck. “We had been told that cover crops would not work in our area, but now they are flourishing.”
Beck’s introductory red, INK 2019 (£15.70, www.aduv.co.uk) is made from Austria’s popular zweigelt grape with a little St Laurent. Zweigelt is grown on lower loamy soils giving cherry fruit and soft tannins matured in small old barriques, whereas St Laurent is planted on red gravel over loam at the top of Gols hill and matured in larger oak casks. This lively, vibrant biodynamic wine with its pure fruit, silky smooth texture, moderate 12 per cent alcohol and gentle spice demonstrates Beck’s lightness of touch and her focus on fresh lower alcohol natural wines.