The renaissance of South America’s forgotten grape

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f I had to pick just one grape variety to represent South America, it would be criolla – I consider it the mother grape of the Americas.” This is according to the author of an impressive colourful new guide: The South America Wine Guide (£35, www.southamericawineguide.com) – the first book to cover the entire continent from Peru and Bolivia to Colombia and Ecuador – including the titans Chile and Argentina – in such detail.

Amanda Barnes is an English journalist who has lived and breathed South American wines ever since she moved to the continent back in 2009. Today she is the most knowledgeable expert on the criollas, with a criolla family tree in her new book.

Barnes describes South America’s criolla grapes as "utterly unique” – highlighting that they are now enjoying a “thrilling renaissance”. Yet thousands of wine lovers worldwide, who drink copious quantities of South American wines, have never heard of criolla.

“Criolla is not native to South America…and it is not just one grape – but a family of grapes,” explains Barnes.

The original criolla varieties were the Mission varieties, selected for their high yielding and resilient nature, introduced first onto Hispaniola island on Christopher Columbus’s second voyage in 1493, later to Mexico, Peru and through South America.

These first criolla vines were red listan prieto (called pais in Chile, criolla chica in Argentina, negra criolla in Peru, missionera in Bolivia) and white muscatel de alejandria.

These two grapes started the wine story in the Americas in the 16th century and made a home there spawning a whole family, with cross breeding creating torrontes, cereza, criolla no 1, quebranta and more.

“For 400 years all the wines of South America were made from the criolla family – prospering in harsh high altitude and the driest desert, down to the windswept wilderness of Patagonia,” says Barnes.

However when Chile and Argentina wanted to compete with European rivals and introduced the international grapes malbec, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sauvignon blanc – the landscape changed forever.

The criolla varieties were shunned and used for jug and bulk wines.

Now the criolla revolution is gathering pace. New generations of winemakers are rediscovering this intricate web of grapes and reviving artisanal winemaking in Chile, Argentina, Peru and Bolivia, where 150 criolla varieties have been identified.

“It is part of our responsibility to take an interest in these native varieties…by buying the wines we can support families, livelihoods and local culture – as well as enjoying an authentic experience,” says Barnes.

Sparkling

Maule, Chile: Estelado Traditional Method Pais Rosé NV Torres

Legendary winemaking pioneer Miguel Torres makes this remarkable fizz from pais. Very attractive bright raspberry fruits, soft silky smooth palate – good value.

£12.99, House of Townend; Roberts & Speight; www.thedrinkshop.com

White

Mendoza, Argentina: Estate Selection Torrontes 2020 Chakana

Initially citric fruits and zippy palate with a burst of amazing floral perfume as you expect from this grape. Very elegant, crisply dry and textural.

£15.50, www.vinum.co.uk

Red

Maule, Chile: Pais Viejo 2020 Bouchon

Bouchon are one of the most forwardthinking wineries focusing on pais, producing three pais in different regions. The warm Maule region gives wonderful vibrancy, freshness, grainy tannins and rich ripe fruits. £12.35, www.justerinis.com; www. connollyswines.co.uk

Mendoza, Argentina: Criolla Grande Buenas Vides Limited Edition 2020

Bright cherry fruits and soft succulent palate, what it lacks in depth it makes up for in delicacy with strawberry fruits and boiled sweet notes. Well done Aldi for listing the first UK supermarket criolla.

£5.99, Aldi

Mendoza, Argentina: La Marchigiana Criolla Chica 2018 Catena Zapata

Honouring the natural and sulphitefree homemade-wine legacy, this is fermented and aged in 16th century tinaja clay pots with long skin contact. Initially floral, deep plummy fruits, herby hints with soft supple well rounded palate finishing with vibrant freshness.

£23, Cavas de Gaucho

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