A port in a

Airds Hotel in Port Appin is a wonderful place to feast, relax and explore, writes Will Slater

It only takes ten minutes on the ferry from Port Appin to the Inner Hebridean island of Lismore, but it drops you into another world of ancient castles and clans and an equally fascinating snapshot of life on an island with a population of 140.

At just ten miles long, it is a popular day trip destination and ideal for walking or cycling around. As the rain piles in on this blustery March day, we are fortunate to be on a Land Rover tour in the company of Robert, who drives us slowly round recounting the history, sharing his story and pointing out notable features, including the medieval gravestones displayed outside St Moluag’s Cathedral and the Iron Age broch, Tirefour Castle.

We pull up near the ruins of Castle Coeffin on the western shore and Robert leaves us to explore the site, which dates back to the 13th century. It’s a squelchy scramble to get to but it is wildly beautiful, with commanding views towards Mull. We return to a picnic of delicious cheese scones and chocolate and strawberry cake made by Robert's partner Iris. They are typical of many islanders who juggle multiple roles to make a living. Robert is also the island’s plumber and they have another sideline in paddleboarding tours.

The trip is organised through our hotel for the weekend, Airds. The former coaching inn in Port Appin near Oban has 11 rooms, most of which offer a view over Loch Linnhe and the Morvern mountains beyond. It’s a spectacular spot and one made for kicking back and relaxing.

Luxury is something of a byword here. The first sigh moment began as we settled into a comfy chair in the lounge in front of a roaring fire with a glass of chilled prosecco after our drive from Edinburgh. The welcome set the tone for a quietly luxurious romantic weekend of comfort and fine dining.

This is a celebration destination for an anniversary, birthday or special occasion, at least judging from the other guests we met.

Our room is very cosy, decorated in tasteful shades. There is a decanter of whisky mac, Bulgari goodies in the bathroom and of course, the view.

Back in the lounge before dinner, where there is a palpable sense of anticipation of the feast to follow, we contemplate the wine list over a G&T, having already made our dinner choices from the menu in our room. The luxury feel extends to the prices, where wines start at £38.

Dinner is spectacular and sets Airds apart from any number of