Ten great crisp, dry whites from around the world
This week I have been searching for crisp, dry whites from around the world for serving in early springtime.
Ontario, Canada: The Falls Canadian Riesling NV
Aldi are pushing the boundaries with their wine selection – including an unusual riesling from the Niagara peninsula. Light honey and lime notes, initially ripe generous fruits with a hint of sweetness, with a light zippy finish – a quirky off-dry springtime aperitif.
£9.99, Aldi
Peloponnese, Greece: The Society’s Greek White 2021 Good value
It is great to see Greek whites competing so well on price and quality. Winemaker Leonidas Nassiakos of Semeli winery is known as the ‘master of Moschofilero’ on the high Mantinia plateau. Loved its floral rose petal aromas, citric fruits and long aromatic finish with a slight herby twist.
£8.50, The Wine Society
Eden Valley, Australia: Peggy’s Hill 2021 Henschke
From the celebrated Henschke family with Stephen as winemaker and his wife Prue as viticulturalist – now joined by son Johann. This riesling comes from old vines – up to 50 years old – and it shows in the depth of flavour. Fragrant citric burst, crisp limey palate with fine minerally finish.
£18, Fine Wine Musselburgh; Vinvm
Kakheti, Georgia: KISI 2019 Askaneli Brothers
The indigenous Georgian kisi (qisi) grape was almost extinct 20 years ago, but it is now enjoying a revival. Askaneli are a 19th century family winery which was revived by the current generation in 1990 – and are now working with Bordeaux consultant Loic Pasquet. Loved its pungent tropical fruit notes, light lemon, green apple and pear flavours. £16.90, Gardabani Wines; Hedonism Wines
Loire, France: Sancerre La Graveliere 2020 Joseph Mellot
Not a typical sancerre with its rich, generous, passionfruit and citric flavours and very plump melony fruits on the palate, but it does have an underlying minerality and lovely fresh acidity. A serious example of sauvignon blanc planted on limestone and clay, with its rich, buttery palate it would be best served with food.
£20, Morrisons
Pfalz, Germany: Scheurebe Trocken 2020 Weegmuller
The scheurebe grape was bred during the First World War by Dr Georg Scheu – and is widely regarded as one of the best riesling crossings. It grows particularly well in the Palatinate – now called Pfalz region – where the two Weegmuller sisters Stefanie and Gabrielle make superb wines in the foothills of the Haardt mountains. £16.85 reduced from £19.99, Strictly Wine
Clare Valley, Australia: Pauletts Polish Hill Riesling 2017
This comes from the Paulett family’s own vineyards planted at over 500 metres on clay over slate in Polish Hill river region of Clare Valley, Australia’s top spot for riesling. Loved its citric flavours, grapefruit pithiness, hints of creaminess, prominent lemony acidity, but mellow on the finish. £10.95, The Wine Society
Rueda, Spain: Clea Verdego 2020 Bodegas de Bardos
Rueda’s verdejo grape is really blossoming as it can cope very well in hot dry conditions. This youthful unoaked example has stone fruit and citrus, herby undertones with a creamy palate, hint of minerality and vibrant fresh acidity.
£11, Woodwinters
Vinho Verde, Portugal: Pequenos Rebentos Alvarinho 2020 Mario Lopes
Star buy
Having trained with local legend Anselmo Mendes, Lopes set up his own winery using old vine from rented vineyards in the Moncao and Melgaco subzones near the Rias Baixas border. A wonderful fleshy, ripe alvarinho with crisp acid and creamy texture – it has more breadth and texture than you find with the same grape (albarino) across the border in Spain.
£16.75, The Sourcing Table
Nahe, Germany: Mineral Riesling Trocken 2017 Emrichschonleber
Werner and his son Frank Schonleber have created a superb Nahe estate with old vines on the Halenberg and Fruhlingsplatzchen vineyards. Using wild fermentation in old oak and ageing in steel tanks, the result is mouthwateringly precise with both delicate floral aromas, and a really intense mineral finish.
£23, Justerini & Brooks
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