Edinburgh eaterie turns bleu into green with Pasture for Life scheme

Aprestigious Edinburgh restaurant has extended its ethical credentials, writes Gaby Soutar.

L‘escargot Bleu, pictured right, a French venue on Broughton Street, has just become the first restaurant in the UK to be certified by Pasture for Life, which supports and promotes producers of 100 per cent pasture-fed beef and dairy.

Fred Berkmiller, chef patron of the 13-year-old eaterie, says: “By choosing meat raised purely on pasture, we know it’s of a much higher quality; it’s healthier than grain-fed meat and it tastes better.”

Pasture for Life says that grazing animals have a restorative power on pasture – grassland that features other small plants – which improves biodiversity and ecosystems.

Fred adds: “They not only treat animals well, but they also put goodness back into soils rather than depleting them, encouraging more wildlife.

“The food system in this country has become so industrialised that chefs like me struggle to source quality ingredients. I realised over a decade ago that things were only getting worse.

“If I am not supporting pasturefed meat producers, and educating my customers and staff, who is? It’s becoming increasingly political, and joining Pasture for Life not only strengthens my relationships with suppliers, but it also sends a clear message to the restaurant trade that customers want the option to eat better meat.”

To become certified by Pasture for Life, a restaurateur has to demonstrate their commitment to using the association’s certified farms. In Scotland, these include Peelham, where Fred sources his veal, Grierson Organic, as well as Balcaskie Estate.

Jimmy Woodrow, executive director of the association, says: “The Pasture for Life story is one of community and ours has – unsurprisingly – come of age in the past couple of years. Our farmers wouldn’t be able to do what they do without supportive butchers, chefs and retailers and, ultimately, members of the public.

“Chefs, in particular, have

captured the public imagination in recent years and have a key role to play in communicating the story of farming to the public. We’re delighted to have Fred and his team on board and it’s heartening for farmers to see such unflinching insistence on quality at a time when it would be understandable to look for the easy option.”

This is another ethical credential for the restaurant. Since reopening after lockdown, the venue has used only produce that is in season or which has fully-traceable provenance.

They also grow their own, support many small producers and have improved working life for employees by restricting opening times to four days a week.