From fizz to packaging, this will be a year of change

In 2024, winemakers will be aiming to increase sustainability. It will also be a year in which drought issues will be top priority as water becomes scarce in key wine regions.

Alternative packaging is now a key topic when it comes to sustainability with wine producers experimenting with alternative formats like boxed wine, pouches, PET bottles, paper bottles or cans – and there have been urgent calls on the UK government to introduce tax incentives for carbonfriendly packaging.

However, the majority of winemakers know that the glass bottle is deeply imbedded into our wine culture. Some like winemaker Miguel Torres in Spain or Nigel Greening of Felton Road in New Zealand believe the answer lies in reducing the weight of glass bottles.

A new initiative to reduce bottle weights was launched by Sustainable Wine Roundtable recently, with retailers including Lidl, Waitrose, Laithwaites, Virgin Wines and The Wine Society agreeing to reduce average bottle weight below 420g by 2026 (the current average is 550g).

Another trend will be the rise of lower alcohol wines, though the very low or zero alcohol ones I have tried, like 0 per cent Hola! Sparkling and five per cent La Chica Bonita (£6.99 at Laithwaites), are too sweet for many consumers.

After a difficult 2023 with serious drought issues across Europe, USA and Australia, this year will see winemakers experimenting with different canopy methods, conserving water throughout the winemaking process – as well as planting alternative grape varieties.

This is evident in Australia with the rise of drought-tolerant grapes like Greek assyrtiko, Cypriot xynisteri and Sicilian nero d’avola – but even traditional regions like Bordeaux in France are allowing the introduction of new grapes like alvarinho and touriga nacional to help the region adapt to climate change. When it comes to fizz, rising champagne prices will mean more consumers focusing on alternatives. We may see more of Italy’s franciacorta, Spain’s cava or South Africa’s cap classique – all made by the same method as champagne and all deserve to be better known.

After a bumper 2023 harvest, the impact on English sparkling wine growth will not be seen for a couple of years, but there is undoubtedly a rise in interest in English wines. Fizz sales in 2024 will also include the softly sparkling pet nat (petillant naturel). Pet nat is made by the Methode Ancestrale, bottling before fermentation is finished. Often bottled with funky labels, it has attracted younger consumers who enjoy pet nat’s fresh fruity flavours and soft delicate mousse.

Low(ish) alcohol Marlborough, New Zealand: The Doctors’ Sauvignon Blanc 2022

One of the best lower alcohol wine on the market – still with Marlborough’s typically pungent gooseberry and passionfruit fruits – and a moderate alcohol level at 9.5 per cent. £9.99/£11.99, Majestic Wine; £10.99, Waitrose

English Pet nat Wales, UK: Ancre Hill Pet Nat Pink NV

Biodynamic winemaker Richard Morris blends older pinot noir with fresh chardonnay – bottled when 90 per cent fermented creating a deliciously smooth soft mousse, fresh vibrancy, herby fizz with good depth.

£19.50, L’art du Vin; Grape Britannia

Canned wine England: The Uncommon Bubble ‘Eleanor’ Rosé NV

Single serve of light strawberry fruits, crisp blend of pinot noir and pinot meunier from Hampshire and Kent fruit with 11.5 per cent alcohol. £4.75 for 250ml can, Waitrose; Ocado; £4.99, Fortnum & Mason

Bag-in-box Beaujolais, France: Julien Chantreau Chiroubles 2021

Amazing to see a Beaujolais Cru in a box from a tiny artisan grower with just 4 hectares of vines – loved its bright raspberry fruit and soft tannins. £36 (equivalent to 3 x £12 bt) Bib Wine www.bibwine.co.uk

Flat plastic PET bottle Provence, France: Galoupet Nomade Rosé 2022

A recycleable bottle that could fit through your letter box – an attractive light, well-made Provençal rosé with a salty mineral finish.

£22, Clos19; Champagne Company

Lighter weight bottle Burgundy, France: C&B White Burgundy 2022

This own label is made by Maison Auvigue – and now boasts a lighter weight bottle – but the wine is still a deliciously affordable white Burgundy.

£17.50, Corney & Barrow

Join Rose’s Up & Coming Wine Producers Tasting in St Andrews on Friday 15 March, www. rosemurraybrown.com