The screwcap fits for Clare Valley’s fine rieslings

The region-wide decision to ditch cork helped change public and industry attitudes, writes Rose Murray Brown

Twenty two years ago a small region in Australia led the world with a screwcap revolution.

Driven by a desire to improve the quality of their wines, almost every winery in the Clare Valley wine region in South Australia grouped together to collectively switch to screwcaps, from corks, in the same vintage, 2002. This was done to protect and preserve the fine aromas of their beautifully delicate rieslings.

By doing this the Clare Valley winemakers gave the nod to the fine wine world that the screwcap was 100 per cent reliable in comparison to cork. Whilst they were not the first to bottle wine under screwcap in Australia; experiments had been going on since late 1980s, they were the first region to work together to switch to this closure.

This was not done as a fashion statement – anything but – as screwcaps then had a poor image with consumers, but by doing this they opened the door for others to follow in New Zealand and beyond.

The aromatic riesling grape is Clare Valley’s signature variety today making up 1,051 of the region’s 5,093 hectares (bizarrely Clare grows more shiraz and cabernet sauvignon). Whilst it has been planted since the 1840s, today Clare Valley rieslings are world famous for their distinctive style: deliciously succulent, limey fruits and piquant fresh acidity. Some are ready for drinking within two years of harvest, whilst others need a decade to show at their best.

What I love about Clare rieslings is that they really show their sense of place. There is a distinct difference in taste between the rieslings from the 11 recognised soil types in the different valleys and elevations (200-600m) from the 50 plus wineries.

Watervale in the south with its red clay loam ‘terra-rossa’ top soil over limestone gives floral lifted styles with limey fruit – more approachable in youth. In comparison Polish Hill River in eastern Clare Valley, which was pioneered by leading winemaker/ screwcap campaigner Jeffrey Grosset of Grosset Wines, has a sturdier rock with broken slate – mainly quartz-type soils beneath grey loamy clay. Vines in Polish Hill River struggle resulting in tighter, steelier, more minerally styles and often need more time to reach their peak – maturing slowly in bottle – protected by the screwcap closure.

Pauletts Polish Hill River Riesling 2022

Classic bone-dry example of Polish Hill’s intense, taut, high acid style with sharp green apple and lemon flavours with a flinty minerally undertone – this needs time to soften a little. If you are visiting Clare Valley, Pauletts’ cellar door has a spectacular elevated vantage point from which you'll get some of the finest views of Clare’s vineyards.

£17, D’arcy Wines; Aus Wines Online; Ellis Wines; Christopher Piper Wines

Pikes Traditionale Riesling Polish Hill River 2023

Best buy

‘Traditionale’ is now in its 39th vintage and currently Australia’s best-selling high value riesling – and you can see why. A great combination of zesty lime and stone fruit and sharp fresh acid bite – it was the most popular wine in our tasting with tasters loving its integrated acidity and fruit. A distinct step up from Pikes’ cheaper ‘Hills & Valleys’ riesling.

£19.95, Fine Wine Co Portobello, Edinburgh; Great Wine Co

Claymore Wines Joshua Tree Watervale Riesling 2022

Made from a blend of Claymore’s Watervale vineyards, it has a pretty bouquet with lime blossom and the palate is softly textured with soft, succulent, nectarine fruits. Tangy, fresh, delicate with good fruit purity with steely undertones and a hint of power – approachable now.

£13.50, Tilleys Wines

Join Rose’s French Classics Wine Dinner at Prestonfield on Thursday 16 May, www. rosemurraybrown.com